Had my SP MoT'd today - no problems - but I learnt an item of interest from the ever-changing MoT regs. Apparently splits in track rod end boots (or any other suspension ball joint boot come to that), which used to be an advisory, are now a failure point. While I was aware that rack gaiter splits were an obvious failure, this was a new one on me. My TRE's have done less than a thousand miles but the boots were already showing surface cracking - no splits or holes - but definite cracks. Although the TRE's were new when I bought them last year, I suspect they'd probably been sitting on a store shelf since the 1960's. While the metal bits were fine the rubbers were probably well past their 'best before' date.
You may well be aware of this MoT update - I think it's at least a couple of years old now - but anyway, it's another thing to check before your next test.
Incidentally replacement TRE boots are now available separately, so you don't have to buy a complete new joint just because the boot is split. (You still have to break the taper to change them though!)
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Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
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TRE's and MoT's
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- Extra-Wise Man
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:15 pm
- Location: Gloucestershire
TRE's and MoT's
Nick
"Don't bother with the Air & Space Museum - there's nothing to see.......".
"Don't bother with the Air & Space Museum - there's nothing to see.......".
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- Wise Man
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:23 pm
Re: TRE's and MoT's
This a recent change not more then a year i would think as the old rule was ok if joint still had lubrication, friend had same problem earlier this year with his TR4.
Had a total rebuild the year previous but the MOT renewal was many rubber replacements, the joints were all new on rebuild pattern parts as so cheap he thought.
But when we looked at the rubber covers might as well have used a condom for the cover was so thin, we said then a extra £2 per joint for good covers would have been cheap compared to the job of replacing the duff covers fitted when new.
So think this may helps others if they fit good quality dust covers to the new pattern parts they buy, or check the thickness of the rubber covers supplied when new.
The friends car knowing him had done less then 2000 miles as he has 3 or 4 classic's plus his normal drivers for him and the wife.
Had a total rebuild the year previous but the MOT renewal was many rubber replacements, the joints were all new on rebuild pattern parts as so cheap he thought.
But when we looked at the rubber covers might as well have used a condom for the cover was so thin, we said then a extra £2 per joint for good covers would have been cheap compared to the job of replacing the duff covers fitted when new.
So think this may helps others if they fit good quality dust covers to the new pattern parts they buy, or check the thickness of the rubber covers supplied when new.
The friends car knowing him had done less then 2000 miles as he has 3 or 4 classic's plus his normal drivers for him and the wife.
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- Wise Man
- Posts: 795
- Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 2:14 pm
- Location: Penkridge. Staffs.
Re: TRE's and MoT's
I think a lot is to do with the poor quility of the rubber used nowadays.
The gear-change pedal rubber on my 85yrs old Daimler is in sound if not worn condition - whereas when I replaced the door seals on my E Type a few years ago having obtained a morgage to buy them, they turned to mush within three years.
Look up the word "rob" in the dictionary - and you'll see it stands for "rip off Britain".
The gear-change pedal rubber on my 85yrs old Daimler is in sound if not worn condition - whereas when I replaced the door seals on my E Type a few years ago having obtained a morgage to buy them, they turned to mush within three years.
Look up the word "rob" in the dictionary - and you'll see it stands for "rip off Britain".