Please visit the Club's website https://www.dloc.org.uk/ to join. Visit https://www.dloc.org.uk/adhoc to DONATE towards the cost of the forum.
Please don't post someone's email address to avoid it being harvested by spambots and it's against GDPR regulations.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
CHANGED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS since registering?, click your username and check your address in User Control Panel, Profile, Account Settings.
If you want help to register, use "contact us" at page bottom for help.

TRE's and MoT's

Technical issues not related to a DLOC car marque, eg tyres, ethanol, other car makes, etc. and legal, political and insurance
Post Reply
Vortex O'Plinth
Extra-Wise Man
Extra-Wise Man
Posts: 1065
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:15 pm
Location: Gloucestershire

TRE's and MoT's

Post by Vortex O'Plinth »

Had my SP MoT'd today - no problems - but I learnt an item of interest from the ever-changing MoT regs. Apparently splits in track rod end boots (or any other suspension ball joint boot come to that), which used to be an advisory, are now a failure point. While I was aware that rack gaiter splits were an obvious failure, this was a new one on me. My TRE's have done less than a thousand miles but the boots were already showing surface cracking - no splits or holes - but definite cracks. Although the TRE's were new when I bought them last year, I suspect they'd probably been sitting on a store shelf since the 1960's. While the metal bits were fine the rubbers were probably well past their 'best before' date.

You may well be aware of this MoT update - I think it's at least a couple of years old now - but anyway, it's another thing to check before your next test.

Incidentally replacement TRE boots are now available separately, so you don't have to buy a complete new joint just because the boot is split. (You still have to break the taper to change them though!)
Nick

"Don't bother with the Air & Space Museum - there's nothing to see.......".

Norfolk Lad
Wise Man
Wise Man
Posts: 715
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:23 pm

Re: TRE's and MoT's

Post by Norfolk Lad »

This a recent change not more then a year i would think as the old rule was ok if joint still had lubrication, friend had same problem earlier this year with his TR4.
Had a total rebuild the year previous but the MOT renewal was many rubber replacements, the joints were all new on rebuild pattern parts as so cheap he thought.
But when we looked at the rubber covers might as well have used a condom for the cover was so thin, we said then a extra £2 per joint for good covers would have been cheap compared to the job of replacing the duff covers fitted when new.
So think this may helps others if they fit good quality dust covers to the new pattern parts they buy, or check the thickness of the rubber covers supplied when new.
The friends car knowing him had done less then 2000 miles as he has 3 or 4 classic's plus his normal drivers for him and the wife.

Stan Thomas
Wise Man
Wise Man
Posts: 795
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 2:14 pm
Location: Penkridge. Staffs.

Re: TRE's and MoT's

Post by Stan Thomas »

I think a lot is to do with the poor quility of the rubber used nowadays.

The gear-change pedal rubber on my 85yrs old Daimler is in sound if not worn condition - whereas when I replaced the door seals on my E Type a few years ago having obtained a morgage to buy them, they turned to mush within three years.

Look up the word "rob" in the dictionary - and you'll see it stands for "rip off Britain".

Post Reply