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Removal of Body Shell from Frame

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Dave Scott
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:09 am

Removal of Body Shell from Frame

Post by Dave Scott »

I am interested in removing the shell from the frame for the purpose of painting.

I would like to remove it leaving as much as possible attached to the chassis.

If anyone has any advice I am interested in learning from your experiences.

Thanks,
Dave

Ian Slade
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Re: Removal of Body Shell from Frame

Post by Ian Slade »

Disconnect all wiring from the engine and chassis, remove the steering column, disconnect fuel, water and brake lines at the chassis front and rear. I suggest that if you are not painting the chassis and rust proofing then just remove the engine, gearbox and radiator, much simpler, cover the chassis and suspension at the wheel arches.
Owner since the 70's, Genghis is slightly to my left.

Dobbinridesagain
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Re: Removal of Body Shell from Frame

Post by Dobbinridesagain »

Having gone to all that trouble, I strongly suggest you make it worthwhile by using a decent paint system.

Jenolite all over to kill the rust
http://jenolite.net/how.html
Two coats Jenoseel
http://pressreleases.responsesource.com ... tQQnfmLRMw
Two coats Rustbuster Epoxy 121 mastic
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust ... nt/c28117/
or as a League Two option, Eastwood Extreme chassis black, or POR15, which being one-packs are less faff to apply.

But the Jeno/121 system will outlast all of us.

It grieves me when people go to the considerable bother of a body-off and then just wire brush and a coat of cheap brittle rubbish such as Hammerite, or worse still, powder coat.

Ivor

Dave Scott
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Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:09 am

Re: Removal of Body Shell from Frame

Post by Dave Scott »

Thanks for the help and advice.

It is my intention to disassemble the chassis and refurbish it completely.

That will be done while the shell is being refinished.

It is one thing at a time though. I thought I would send the shell out while I worked on the rest.

Has anyone experienced bracing the doors while it is off the frame? What method and how to attach for maximum stiffness?

Dave

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watkindj
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Re: Removal of Body Shell from Frame

Post by watkindj »

Most definitely brace the body before removal and while off to stop from twisting I'm sure someone will give accurate bracing method
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Sydsmith
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Re: Removal of Body Shell from Frame

Post by Sydsmith »

The SP shell is not easy to get off, in that the 26 bolts holding it on are almost always rusted into their captive nuts, some of which will break away from the chassis, they are very good steel bolts, but they rust badly, especially round the seats and on the suspension tower braces, so get plenty of quality drills to drill out the ones that will not budge or break off. good idea to soak them in WD40 several times for days before you start.

If the steering is the original type it has to come out, if there is a rack and pinion conversion you can manage by disconnecting the universal joint. Disconnect and remove the battery, drain the radiator and remove the hoses disconnect heater hoses and the throttle linkage, disconnect the ignition coil connections, disconnect clutch and brake fluid pipes and check for other body chassis connections, remove gearbox tunnel and remove seats to reduce weight and enable bracing to be put in. (I think that's it)

There are many ways to brace the tub, but it is not as flimsy as is often claimed and will at a push be OK without bracing, but I would never attempt it. I used three by two CLS cut to size and wedged into place between the front bulkhead and the rear seat. Cut one piece to fit across the car at the rear then two blocks to go under the dash, measure the distance and cut two more long pieces to a wedge fit between the under dash blocks and the back seat, wedge them in as close to the door on either side as you can get them, then cut two legs to prevent the under dash braces from dropping down, the screw the whole lot together. (hope that all makes sense).

Three/four good men can lift the tub off, but you need someone to make sure all is coming away OK.

The hard bit is getting the body back on with the right gaps without damaging that new paint. You are supposed to make sure that you keep the original spacers which are fitted between the body and the chassis, but I defy anyone to do that, and beside, if you do any work on the chassis which changes its levels even by a small amount the spacers are wrong. and even taking the tub of for a short time will distort its original levels.

I remounted the body on new spacers made from kitchen gristly chopping board material, you need the fairly thick ones, they come in several thicknesses I cut them into two by two squares and they work a treat and have done many thousand miles without a problem. You will find it easier to drill them whilst they are still in one piece and then cut them into squares. Getting the door gaps right is not easy as you need to tighten up all the body bolts then work out where the spacers need changing and the door hinges adjusted, bit fiddly but it can be done.

Took me two days to get the bolts out and a morning to do the rest, then three days to get it back on and the gaps fitting properly.

Good luck with your project.

Dave Scott
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:09 am

Re: Removal of Body Shell from Frame

Post by Dave Scott »

Thank you all for the insight. Hopefully it will help shorten the learning curve.

Dave

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