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Smiths Clocks

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theoldman
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Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:39 pm
Location: Bacton on Sea, Norfolk UK

Smiths Clocks

Post by theoldman »

Having had "fun" with the Smiths clock on the Conquest, I thought I might impart my findings, which may help others.

This only refers to the 2" Smiths clock fitted to post - war cars, which may have either white or black faces, according to the lateness of the particular model.

OK, so the clock wouldn't go. I sent it to the local horologist who found two mechanical faults which he fixed. I put the clock on test to check it was not slow or fast. During this test I had to disconnect the leads to turn the adjusting screw. Every time I did this and reconnected the clock, it would "go" for the few hours then stop. This became increasingly frustrating over the week...................

On Monday of this week I again took it to pieces and using a magnifying glass examined the whole lot.

I found the cause of the problem pretty quickly. The solenoid which makes the magnetic field to move the "ticker wheel" back and forth has a n earth which consists of the solenoid wire clipped round a thin post on the clock chassis. This obviously when new was "sprung" and was kept in place by the springiness of itself. Over the years, I assume the springiness had weakened and it was just "resting" on the post. If the clock was moved, it had a tendency to part company with the post and the clock would stop.

A little blob of silver solder to secure the wire to the post has fixed the problem, simple as that.

If, therefore, you have a non - running clock, before you send it t the menders, check you have a circuit on the solenoid!!!

I hope this may result in a few more working clocks!
Normal for Norfolk

HenryC
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Re: Smiths Clocks

Post by HenryC »

I have recently repaired my 2" time clock. It turn out that the solenoid had gone open circuit and so was not creating a magnetic field to operate the balance wheel (the wheel that goes back and forth). If your clock has stopped, it might be worth checking the solenoid first before embarking on other expensive repairs.

The clock had been repaired in the past with an interesting modification involving a transistor, diode and resistors (I assume to boost the signal from poorly conducting contacts). I found an interesting website called clocks4classics who produce an useful modification to get rid of the contacts altogether. It's not cheap but may keep your clock going for longer. I have fitted this mod, its quite straight forward and the clock seems to work well now.

ON THE SAME SITE THERE IS A REALLY GOOD VIDEO, explaining how to dismantle, clean and reassemble the clock. It's actually about doing the modification but ignore those bits and don't cut any wires or throw bits away!

He also sold me a good used solenoid.

Hope this helps.
Cheers, Henry Curwen
Registrar for Conquest & Century Saloons (DJ250/1, DJ256/7, DJ260/1)

Conquest (Drop Head) Coupe DJ252

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