Some advice/comment please. Some stub axles have just one hole for a split pin. Some have two at about 30 degree angle to one another. Taking the first example how to ensure the correct load on the bearings. If the nut is tightened gently, thus nipping the bearings, yet the hole does not line up with a castellation the temptation would be to tighten slightly more and fit the pin. However, rotating the nut anti-clockwise to remove some of the pressure on the bearings might produce more than a very slight rock at the rim edge.
I like to feel a very slight, almost imperceptible rock just denoting that the bearings are not under excess pressure.
What do the members of this forum think please?
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Spit pins and castellated nuts
Re: Spit pins and castellated nuts
Depends upon the manufacturers specifications. But as a rule take out the play in the bearing and then go tighter to the next available alignment. If I didn’t have the information then that is what I would do. The main thing is to be able to spin the hub.
This is where the manufacturers manuals are invaluable because the above is not always the case.
Some advise to back off and some advise to use shims to suit the amount of clearance.
This is where the manufacturers manuals are invaluable because the above is not always the case.
Some advise to back off and some advise to use shims to suit the amount of clearance.
Colin,
I may be slow but I’m rough as well !
I may be slow but I’m rough as well !
Re: Spit pins and castellated nuts
If there is only one split pin hole in the stub axle I always tighten the adjusting nut up until it’s pretty tight then back it off until the split pin hole lines up. I would definitely leave a certain amount of free play in the bearing as opposed to none-I once saw the effect of leaving no play here and it wasn’t a pretty sight! However, if you think this leaves too much play in the bearing you can always shim the thrust washer, or swap the adjusting nut and/or the thrust washer from the other wheel. ..juggle them around, so to speak. Having said that, I doubt manufacturers would only drill one hole in the stub axle if they thought this could increase end float beyond limits. For two split pin holes then tighten the nut up and back off until the first split pin hole lines up.
Steve
Steve
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Re: Spit pins and castellated nuts
DIRE WARNING!!
If you are are talking about taper roller wheel bearings bearings as your reference to "stub axles" implies, there MUST be a small amount of play when you adjust them. I agree that one flat of the hexagonal nut may be too great a free play - in which case select a slightly different thickness washer, or file a little off the back of the nut.
To do the job ultra-properly, assemble the hub with the bearings washed dry, then having got the adjustment correct, mark the position of the nut and dismantle, grease the bearings accordingly then reassemble.
If you are are talking about taper roller wheel bearings bearings as your reference to "stub axles" implies, there MUST be a small amount of play when you adjust them. I agree that one flat of the hexagonal nut may be too great a free play - in which case select a slightly different thickness washer, or file a little off the back of the nut.
To do the job ultra-properly, assemble the hub with the bearings washed dry, then having got the adjustment correct, mark the position of the nut and dismantle, grease the bearings accordingly then reassemble.
Re: Spit pins and castellated nuts
If you are ajusting a v8 bearing look under the shaft for wear its a common falt on them you doi not see it just feel
With your fingers you keep tightening nut up but it never takes play out new shaft is only answer a very well known
Restorer did not spot it trying to cure wheel shake who checks them.
With your fingers you keep tightening nut up but it never takes play out new shaft is only answer a very well known
Restorer did not spot it trying to cure wheel shake who checks them.