Hello, Has anyone an opinion on insulating the exhaust in the engine bay area? The parts book for my own car (1933 Lanchester 15/18) shows the front exhaust lagged in asbestos tape. A quick internet search came up with:
Any experience / recommendations?
Thanks, Ranald
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Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
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Exhaust Insulation Wrap
-
marchesmark
- Helpful Person
- Posts: 475
- Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:02 pm
Re: Exhaust Insulation Wrap
Hi Ranald,
I've used exhaust wrap before, mainly on a Jensen Interceptor. I had fitted tubular steel manifolds in place of the original cast iron, and there seemed to be a lot more heat in the engine bay, so I used the wrap as a solution. It is not difficult to fit, and can be overpainted with a suitable exhaust paint to give a neat finish. I was told that as the exhaust stays hotter longer, it retains its velocity through the pipes so is extracted quicker. Well, there we are - I am just repeating what I was told!
It does seem obvious though that if you are preventing heat getting into the engine bay, whilst the ancillaries will be better off, that heat will still be somewhere, most likely in the engine. So you might get hotter running temperatures. This may or may not be an issue. At least you can always remove the wrap if it proves unsuitable.
I've always used Agriemach for heat insulation and related products, and found them very helpful.
https://www.agriemach.com/
Mark
I've used exhaust wrap before, mainly on a Jensen Interceptor. I had fitted tubular steel manifolds in place of the original cast iron, and there seemed to be a lot more heat in the engine bay, so I used the wrap as a solution. It is not difficult to fit, and can be overpainted with a suitable exhaust paint to give a neat finish. I was told that as the exhaust stays hotter longer, it retains its velocity through the pipes so is extracted quicker. Well, there we are - I am just repeating what I was told!
It does seem obvious though that if you are preventing heat getting into the engine bay, whilst the ancillaries will be better off, that heat will still be somewhere, most likely in the engine. So you might get hotter running temperatures. This may or may not be an issue. At least you can always remove the wrap if it proves unsuitable.
I've always used Agriemach for heat insulation and related products, and found them very helpful.
https://www.agriemach.com/
Mark
Re: Exhaust Insulation Wrap
Hi Ranald,
like Mark, I've used thermal wrap on my MGCGT tubular manifolds to great effect.
The underbonnet temperature is much lower now, and the starter and alternator have an easier life. (as do the backs of your hands when you're working on things!)
One thing to remember is that the exhaust gases at the tailpipe are much higher (the heat has to go somewhere) so watch for blueing on chrome/ discoloration of paint unless the tailpipe is well clear of the body.
I used these folks
http://www.thermotec.com/products/11001 ... -wrap.html
and I've been happy with it for 10+ years now.
Watch out for the cheap stuff on Ebay which is just uncoated fibreglass - the "real" stuff is coated and includes Kevlar. It'll stink to high heaven until the coating evens out then it's fine. Remember you'll need a lot more than you think to do a good overlap, and you'll need stainless ties to retain it. The coating evens out the temperature and prevents moisture getting to the pipes when cold - the cheap stuff lets condensation in and encourages rust on mild steel manifolds.
Cheers
like Mark, I've used thermal wrap on my MGCGT tubular manifolds to great effect.
The underbonnet temperature is much lower now, and the starter and alternator have an easier life. (as do the backs of your hands when you're working on things!)
One thing to remember is that the exhaust gases at the tailpipe are much higher (the heat has to go somewhere) so watch for blueing on chrome/ discoloration of paint unless the tailpipe is well clear of the body.
I used these folks
http://www.thermotec.com/products/11001 ... -wrap.html
and I've been happy with it for 10+ years now.
Watch out for the cheap stuff on Ebay which is just uncoated fibreglass - the "real" stuff is coated and includes Kevlar. It'll stink to high heaven until the coating evens out then it's fine. Remember you'll need a lot more than you think to do a good overlap, and you'll need stainless ties to retain it. The coating evens out the temperature and prevents moisture getting to the pipes when cold - the cheap stuff lets condensation in and encourages rust on mild steel manifolds.
Cheers
John M in Middlesex, NW London
1962 SP250 "B" Spec
DLOC Herts Region Sec
1962 SP250 "B" Spec
DLOC Herts Region Sec
Re: Exhaust Insulation Wrap
Thank you both for very useful replies.