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Conquest Handbrake (Also Lanchester 14)

Descriptive and in-depth articles on how to do repairs or restoration.
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theoldman
Posts: 1101
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:39 pm
Location: Bacton on Sea, Norfolk UK

Conquest Handbrake (Also Lanchester 14)

Post by theoldman » Thu May 11, 2017 2:42 pm

Seeing as I fitted this today, I thought it might be helpful to others to know how to do it.

The Conquest (all models) and Lanchester 14/Leda handbrake is of the pistol grip variety and will both push and pull the cable.

Invariably, the cable breaks at the pistol grip end where it is attached to the slide by a nipple.

Dribble a little thin oil - I used 3 in 1 - down the new cable as it does not have a grease nipple.

FROM "UP TOP"

Pull out the pistol grip completely and dispose of any bits of nipple and cable trapped in it.

Remove the bolt - mine was 11mm head - on the clamp next to the bulkhead and pull the old cable out completely. The new cables supplied by John Nash are thicker than the originals so you will need to expand the slot in the clamp to a sufficient width so the cable can pass through. Try to do this in situ as once removed, the clamp is quite difficult to line up and will require a bit of fiddling with to get the bolt through.

Re - insert the pistol grip in to its slide by holding the pawl assembly in to the recess and pushing the whole lot in whilst depressing the pistol grip "white lever" You will then see that the locating hole for the nipple appears just above the clamp.

Insert the nipple in the recess hole and pass the cable through the slot in the clamp. Pull the handbrake on until the nipple just disappears in to the slide. Trim off about 1/2 inch of the plastic coating on the outer cable and push it in to the clamp as far as it will go. Replace the bolt and nut and tighten the clamp. Feed the rest of the cable the same route as the old cable is routed.

FROM UNDERNEATH

Ideally, this should be done on a ramp or a pit. I grovelled on the hard standing with the front wheels up on ramps and it's quite difficult.

Remove the triangular cover which protects the cable end from road dirt. This is held on with three bolts - these take AGES to undo without a ramp as they are not captive and the bolt heads are inside the chassis. Mine were 11mm heads. (I now know why my previous Conquests and L14 had this part missing.....................)

Once removed, you can see the clamp for the other end of the cable and the clevis pin which attaches the cable to the handbrake operating lever.

Remove the bolt from the clamp, - on mine this was an 8mm head - and pull the old cable out. Remove the split pin and clevis from the operating lever and then discard the old cable.

Pry open the gap to allow the cable to pass through, cut 1/2 inch of plastic cover from the outer cable, insert this in the clamp as far as it will go, replace the nut and bolt and tighten the clamp.

There is a new clevis pin, washer and split pin supplied with the new cable, so attach the forked end to the operating lever with the clevis, followed by the washer and finally the split pin.

Using all the car repairing words you know, struggle like mad to replace the triangular protection cover.

Job Done.

ps - this may well also apply to other models with the pistol grip type handbrake.
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migray
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Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:31 pm
Location: Bakewell

Re: Conquest Handbrake (Also Lanchester 14)

Post by migray » Thu May 11, 2017 5:28 pm

Thank you for this, it was very timely. Decided to replace the draught excluder where the handbrake goes through the bulkhead this morning on my DJ254.
I was trying to figure out how the cable detaches from the handbrake actuator and found little help in the manual. Then you posted your advice and I managed to get things apart. I have found the clamp at the end of the cable is broken however so need to work out how best to deal with that.

Thank you again

Mike

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theoldman
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Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:39 pm
Location: Bacton on Sea, Norfolk UK

Re: Conquest Handbrake (Also Lanchester 14)

Post by theoldman » Thu May 11, 2017 8:19 pm

Glad to be of assistance! If the clamp is broken, but will still "clamp" I wouldn't worry unduly.
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