I started with trying to solve a rear sump oil seal leak some months ago and that prompted me to carry out a full engine rebuild. As part of the rebuild I fitted new neoprene sump seals and installed the engine and gearbox back into the car. I am very pleased with the results of the rebuild however disappointed to find that I still have an oil leak from the rear sum seal. I have dropped the sump as as can be seen from the attached photograph the seal was not seated correctly. I do not want to remove the engine again and am intending to try and replace the seal with the engine in situe.
Has anyone any tips and suggestions as to how to fit the seal with the engine in situe without it slipping?
I am thinking of a few dabs of superglue to secure the seal in place and just coating the sump where it comes into contact with the seal with a light smear of oil.
Thanks
Chris
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Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
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SP250 rear sump oil seal
Re: SP250 rear sump oil seal
Perhaps the big issue with replacing sump seals 'in situ' is getting everything squeaky clean and free of oil contamination to ensure an oil tight seal....cleanliness is the key.. Id suggest you leave the car parked up on axle stands (or hoist if you have one) for at least 3 days and wipe down the oily areas as often as possible until no further drips or creeping of oil film are detected.. then clean the contact areas with solvent such as acetone ..when satisfactory, apply a light but even coat of contact adhesive to the rear seal and its housing...and when the adhesive is dry, put the seal in its groove and allow the adhesive to do its job.. then LIGHTLY but evenly coat both sump and block joining faces with a high quality gasket sealer (i use permatex 'ultra grey" as 1st choice) and re-assemble, following instructions for tightening as per factory manual.. good luck.
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Re: SP250 rear sump oil seal
Thank you for your useful advice.
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Re: SP250 rear sump oil seal
Hi, the seal in the photo, is it a solid liquorice type seal? if so I have found these rather unforgiving, David Beales has made some softer (neoprean?) ones which I shall be using on my rebuild, I haven't finished it yet so can not give a full report yet, but they certainly seem a better choice over the uncompressable replacement, originally they were cork and thiner than the black liquorice replacement.
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Re: SP250 rear sump oil seal
John
The seal was purchased from David Manners and does look like a stick of liquorish.
I am in the process of fitting a replacement also from David Manners and as per the advice above have secured the seals to their housing using a contact adhesive (Evo stick). I am just about to fit the sump. I have thoroughly cleaned and de-greased the faces of the block and sump and intend to only apply sealant to the metal to metal faces.
Fingers crossed that it works this time!
Chris
The seal was purchased from David Manners and does look like a stick of liquorish.
I am in the process of fitting a replacement also from David Manners and as per the advice above have secured the seals to their housing using a contact adhesive (Evo stick). I am just about to fit the sump. I have thoroughly cleaned and de-greased the faces of the block and sump and intend to only apply sealant to the metal to metal faces.
Fingers crossed that it works this time!
Chris
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Re: SP250 rear sump oil seal
looking at the photo I would say it moved when fitting the sump, that may have been because it was too long. they usually need trimming to length so don't make the same mistake with the new one
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Re: SP250 rear sump oil seal
Russ - you are probably correct. On the second attempt I stuck the seal onto the housing and checked the length carefully. Will be able to test if this has been successful tomorrow!
Chris
Chris