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Daimler V8 250 Front Suspension & Brake Caliper Shims

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pertonjohn
Posts: 48
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:25 pm

Daimler V8 250 Front Suspension & Brake Caliper Shims

Post by pertonjohn »

Hello again
I am re-assembling the front suspension (ie tie rod levers to stub axle carriers) at present and see from the parts list that there should be selective shims between these two parts. I cannot establish why/how these are needed. I have the shims for centralizing the brake calipers so have no problem with that.
If anyone could guide me with the tie rod lever shims i would be grateful. I cannot find any mention of any procedure in the workshop manual.
Thanks, John

A.N.Other
Wide Man
Wide Man
Posts: 551
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 12:45 pm
Location: Leeds

Re: Daimler V8 250 Front Suspension & Brake Caliper Shims

Post by A.N.Other »

I would imagine it is to set camber/castor angles
link
Colin,
I may be slow but I’m rough as well !

Chris S
Posts: 22
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2017 12:17 pm
Location: Purley, Surrey

Re: Daimler V8 250 Front Suspension & Brake Caliper Shims

Post by Chris S »

Hi John, refitting brake callipers are not easy, especially if you haven't taken the precaution of removing, and keeping the three sets separate. This normally means all the shims are in a heap on the ground. There are three sets , upper shim are used to centralise the upper part of the calliper. The same thickness of shims are used to centralise the lower part of the calliper. The third set if shims are used to take up ALL of the space between the calliper and the tie rod lever. If this is not done, then tightening up lower bolt, will alter the toe in, and possibly fracture the arm.
Procedure I use is to loosen both bolts a couple of turns. Then remove the shorter top bolt. Move the top of calliper back as far as it will go, and remove all shims. This is more difficult than it appears as the tend to stick to one face or the other. Then remove the low bolt an allow all shims to fall into a tray on the floor.
The shims removed from the upper bolt are then measured with a micrometer or vernier. From the shims picked up from the floor (& cleaned) collect together the same width as the previous top measurement, the remainder are to make up the calliper - arm gap.

If you have just got a heap of shims, all is not lost. Position the calliper with out any shims, and put on both bolts. slowly screw in the top bolt until the calliper is centralised. Measure the top gap using feeler gauges. You now have the required top bolt gap, collect together two sets of shims to this measurement. You now have the required info to refit the callipers.
I use a large screwdriver with a tapered blade to position the top shims , to allow the bolt to fitted.
This is not an easy procedure as the shims tend to drop out as the screwdriver is withdrawn. Greasing the shims helps to keep them in place.
Hope this helps. As with most things its a lot easier the second time around
Best rgds Chris
V8 Saloon Registrar.

tjt77
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Re: Daimler V8 250 Front Suspension & Brake Caliper Shims

Post by tjt77 »

Actually this need not be overcomplicated.. the brake caliper shims are there to centralize the caliper body with the brake disc.. BUT.. its not absolutely critical to get it 'bang on'..(modern cars no longer have this 'adjustment' as it was deemed unnecessary.. brake calipers will 'self centre') if its up to .040" 'off' the brakes will still perform exactly as designed to do.. many people are replacing the old dunlop calipers with modern 'one assembly' 4 piston units.. about same cost as rebuilding the old dunlops ,whilst having the advantage of increasing the efficiency of the brakes..both sensible and a wise upgrade.. as regards the shims on the steering arm itself..again..not critical..its a strong piece of forged steel. if its up to +/-.040" off alignment with the front bolt ( that which secures both stub axle and arm to stub axle) its not a huge issue and will NOT add any significant stress.. it IS true that it may alter toe in slightly.. but that should be checked and adjusted as required every time one replaces anything on the front suspension anyway.. these cars steer much better with increased castor angle...they are almost always shimmed heavily on the rear side of top ball joint,so there is plenty of provision to increase caster angle.. to set this properly one needs a costly gauge to measure actual caster angle.. but it can be 'experimented' with provided (a) it has not been messed with since leaving the factory.. (b) one does exactly the same as regards shim placement on either side ..
if you increase the castor angle it add more feel to the steering and it will self centre more strongly.. the downside it it also requires slightly increased effort at the steering wheel at parking pace if you dont have power assist.. when fitting power assisted steering rack conversions. most recommend an increase of the castor angle to add more 'feel'..

pertonjohn
Posts: 48
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:25 pm

Re: Daimler V8 250 Front Suspension & Brake Caliper Shims

Post by pertonjohn »

Thank you very much for your comments. As you say quite a fiddly job but now done and centralised within about .010 - .015 which I am pleased with. Happy new year to all.

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