250 V8 gearbox

[Peter.Olive]

My '69 250V8 has slipping gears and I am looking for someone who can help me, preferably as close to Ascot/Windsor as possible. Does anyone have a recommendation of someone to take it to?
Thanks,

Peter

[tjt77]

if you can find a service manual 'online' for the BW 35 its worth seeking out.. there are adjustments that can be made to comepensate for slight wear.. these are not complicated gearbox's and are quite forgiving ..but they do have the following requirements :- clean fluid in correct quality and clear filters.. brake bands properly adjusted..
low and dirty fluid or partially choked filter with give the issues you are facing..as will worn brake bands.. (these are adjustable) if you have mechanical aptitude and dont mind getting your hands in the dirt try the following :-
Buy enough new fluid for a full fluid change and have a quart or so 'extra' on hand .. along with a service kit (pan gasket and filter) get the car off the ground and secure enough to get underneath safely ( axle stands are recommended) clean the oil pan externally along with the flange it mates to for ALL possible loose crud..drain the fluid and observe its colour. (should be translucent red.. if brown and cloudy, that means the brake bands have wear and some of their lining material is suspended the fluid) when its drained undo the bolts securing the oil pan and remove it.. take it inside and carefully inspect whats in the bottom of the pan..and then clean to up so it good enough to eat off.. remove the filter screen, clean th surrounding are being careful bot to get nay crud near the valve body and replace the filter with the new one.... and then replace the cleaned oil pan with a new gasket.. adjust the brake bands are per service manual instructions.. then re-fill with correct amount of new fluid..
auto box issues that cause slow pick up and slipping between changes are generally due to 2 things :- insufficient fluid pressure.. and worn brake bands.. fresh fluid of sufficient amount, clean filter and correct tension on the brake bands will generally ensure it will operate properly if the problem you describe has recently arisen.. its wise the change the fluid every 2 yrs/30k miles..

[Petelang]

Whilst on this subject gents, I wonder if anyone can point me at a possible diagnosis for my V8-250.
Normal driving box is all of, nice smooth up and down shifts, it does kick down if needed and will drive or all day, however stop and put it in reverse and it seems to slip like it's only part engaged. If I then stop and restart it again, select drive, it seems like it's only half driving forward. If I then just drive it a little way it seems perfectly normal.
The same thing happens if reversing out of the garage. It engages in full drive reverse, reverses ok, then select D and it's like only half engaged. It makes no difference even if I select D1 picking up first, still seems like it's only half there.
I had the oil changed and new filter last year to attempt to solve this but it still does it.
Any ideas?
Peter

[KV8]

The 2 previous posts mention correct grade of Auto fluid but without specification. Some of the symptoms mentioned could be down to owners or service personnel topping up or even refilling with the wrong fluid. These early BW autoboxes do not like modern Dexron ATF's

The correct fluid is AQF see [url=https://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehi ... s/view/189[/url]

HTH

H

[CHRIS J]

More on Transmission fluid just to add to the options.
I use Morris liquimatic DexronII My gearbox specialist have told me this type of fluid is OK in the B.W.35 as the box has been rebuilt with new seals, They use D3.

I checked as Morris oils recommended Liquimatic 33G

[tjt77]

rely to Petelang:- the issue you describe is often caused by crud build up in both filter and valve body and should be investigated asap.. if you have 'incorrect specification' fluid it will exacerbate existing problems.. I'd suggest you do a full gearbox service.... drop the pan and replace gasket and the filter .. and look for signs of wear..revealed by dirt in bottom of pan and contaminated fluid ( should be translucent red.. its its brown and cloudy you have a potential problem.. which can be mitigated somewhat with a good service as above and re-adujutsment of band clutches)
Whilst the BW 35 is a relatively simple and robust unit.. it often gets neglected until tell tale signs arise.. always wise to change fluid and check filter every 25k/2 yrs miles to ensure long and trouble free life.. these boxes should last well into the 200k mile range before overhaul..provided they are serviced as per manufacturers guidelines.. of course, with age, the seals and other perishable items can disintegrate..but less so if properly serviced..BUT:- its not realistic to expect a minimally 50 year old butyl rubber seals and 'other' perishable parts to hold up forever.. rebuild kits containing all the perishable are NOT expensive and its very good insurance, if the engine is out for overhaul, to refresh the gearbox as well..

[guitarman1951]

Reply to Peter Olive, Re, where to take your gearbox for repair/recon.
On ebay there is a great Guy who does these gearboxes, called tony, i dont want to give his phone number without consulting him, but if you go onto ebay and copy this no eBay item number:263198908695,you will be able to contact him yourself, regards

[KV8]

More on Transmission fluid just to add to the options.
I use Morris liquimatic DexronII My gearbox specialist have told me this type of fluid is OK in the B.W.35 as the box has been rebuilt with new seals, They use D3.

I checked as Morris oils recommended Liquimatic 33G

I have been told by at least 3 specialists on cars with the BW35 or BW65 (not just Daimler) box that use of ATF Dexron fluids is inviting disaster.

I would play safe and only use AQF as per my link in my previous post.

Liquimatic 33G is not a DexronII fluid it complies with a Ford Spec that defines AQF for BW autoboxes??

H

[tjt77]

the most common fluid available for the BW 35 in USA is 'type F'.. same as recommendation for the power steering reservoir..i dont have enough knowledge of 'other' fluids to cross reference.. but i'd think viscosity is fairly critical .. Ive found that the type F works without any negatives so far..(I use generic brands from wholesale outfits) I use the same in the older BW 'DG250' which was in the earlier Mk2 jags ... we did not get the BW35 in the Mk2 jags as imports ceased in '66 (only the 3.8 was 'officially' imported up to that point) and an 'economy' version of the 3.4 mk2 was sold for '67, badged as '340' but it was NOT the same car as the home market 340, which was introduced AFTER US imports had ceased in sept '67.. the US market 340 has the old DG auto box, ambla interior, synthetic carpet and headliner, straight grain veneer.. oddly all of them had power steering and the manuals came sans overdrive ..the chrome plate seems to be thinner too.. commonly the bumpers corrode easily.. likely the 'triple plating' was dropped in favour of a more economical version..