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SP 250 Cylinder Head Removal

silverdart
Posts: 139
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:49 am
Location: West Midlands

Re: SP 250 Cylinder Head Removal

Post by silverdart » Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:37 am

I always use Hylomar gasket 2000.
A small bead around each aperture.
I have never had a failure yet in 30 years.

Dave.

User avatar
Jez
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:00 am

Re: SP 250 Cylinder Head Removal

Post by Jez » Sun Sep 16, 2018 1:09 pm

I had a recommendation to use a thin coat of WellSeal, which is a bit messy to apply but seems to have worked a treat. Of course, I don't know if it would have been ok without the sealant, but certainly no issues with it.

One plus for it is that it doesn't set in the same way as regular blue Hylomar and therefore any excess won't block any oilways etc.

Cheers - Jez
Jez Stow
1960 Daimler Dart
and a few other toys

Big Col
Posts: 290
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 12:45 pm
Location: Leeds

Re: SP 250 Cylinder Head Removal

Post by Big Col » Sun Sep 16, 2018 4:42 pm

I’ve always used EP2 grease with never a problem.
Colin,
I may be slow but I’m rough as well !

Culbu
Posts: 167
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:21 pm
Location: Deauville, FRANCE

Re: SP 250 Cylinder Head Removal

Post by Culbu » Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:37 pm

Thank you guys for all these answers !

It seems there are as tricks as mechanics ! My Daimler SP250 Service Manual recommends to use grease. I have EP2 grease at the workshop. The Bigcol's solution seems to be the easiest ones for me.

Thanks

tjt77
Posts: 408
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:01 pm

Re: SP 250 Cylinder Head Removal

Post by tjt77 » Mon Sep 17, 2018 10:32 pm

reply to Dave:- Im unsure of the actual copper content in 'coppercoat' gasket sealer, but have been using it for over 30 yrs on alloy headed/iron block engines and all alloy engines with no negative effects so far .. but am well aware that corrosion in the water passages in the head, between head and block is by far the most common cause of head gasket failure on the turner V8s.. it is my belief this is directly due to electrolytic action made worse by contaminated coolant (mixed with excessively low or high PH water) and lack of sufficient coolant changes over the years..
The beauty of aerosol sealant's is that its very easy to get a thin but consistently even film applied ..S&W 'coppercoat' is a very high quality sealer.. when I worked on RR 'dart' turbo prop engines decades ago, the sealant for the main joint faces was 'hylomar', (and 'silcoset' on the burner housings.. similar to todays 'Ultra grey' silicone gasket maker) which was applied by a brush with bristles cut back and 'stippled' on to both mating surfaces in a very thin but even coat.. I used same standards and method on my BSA motorcycle crankcases and rocker housings at the time .. and was one of the very few to have a brit motorcycle that did not leak oil.. ( today I use '3 bond 1152' , generic version of 'Yamabond' for motorcyccle crank cases.. works like a charm.. but disassembly is tricky as its REALLY sticks.. I sometimes use it on classic car gearbox case's that are prone to leak on joint twixt case and tail housing to very good effect.)

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