Many thanks Antony,

Very useful. I assume that the the sides are edges are before and separate to the central panel.

Regards

Howard

Thanks Howard, glad information was/is of use. The sides etc. are as before, and although I did not see the installation as the upholsterer took the hardtop away, I would guess that the central panel may be something like 1cm in thickness but this is a guess, I also assume that something like this would be known to other car upholstery trimmers.

Regards

Antony

Headlining in various guises can be obtained from www.hawkehouse.co.uk who supply to the marine industry and DIY users.
I would suggest the foam backed vinyl which is very easy to use. I did the whole inside of my boat some years ago.
You may need someone to sew bits together but they will give you instructions on how to make very acceptable joints without sewing.
Give them a call for samples to 02392588588 or email hawke.house@btopenworld.com.
If you have the old headlining you could send it to them and they will copy it - all you need to do then is stick it in with spray contact adhesive.

Thanks Ian.

Unfortunately don’t have the old headlining hence all my strange questions!

Cheers

Howard

I have actually unearthed the instructions for the Bryan Purves kit...
Unfortunately it assumes you have the parts to hand ready to assemble. The kit contains headlining material, foam mat, and millboard trim panels, but unless you have these, the profiles are not obvious.

Many thanks Nick

Much appreciated and very helpful

Cheers

Howard

RE: Installation of hardtop lining.

One thing to make sure of is the ability of the contact cement or adhesive used to withstand heat.

What usually happens is that the glue softens under the heat of the sun when sitting out and internal surfaces temps soar, then gravity takes over. Different grades produce differing results, explain your needs to your trim supplier and you should get the correct product. The higher the solids content the better the glue will be. And many light coats (spatter lacing the spray over itself vs a heavy solid coat spray ) make a better surface adhesion when rolled or pressed in place to "contact" the two surfaces you have sprayed together.

A good way to tell your glue is ready and dry is to lightly place the back of your hand on the surface and when it barely clings to the hairs and not your skin it is ready to layup. And poly foams last longer than latex rubber foams which readily dry rots and deteriorates from ozone in the atmosphere.

And then there is the "padded vinyl hard top" option, but that's another topic.

Many thanks. I can see you are optimistic about the forthcoming Summer!

All advice is greatly appreciated

Regards

Howard