I have now done one side of the V so here's my solution.
I bought an oil filler tube on ebay to get the second nut and a 1 5/8" spanner to go with the large adjustable I'd already borrowed, and by locking the two nuts on the thread I got the tubes in and out without any problem. The short thread on the spark plug tubes is at the top on my engine and the long one goes in the head.
I didn't find a copper washer at all on one tube, but they all have at least one now. New washers are available from SNG Barratt.
Take care not to cross thread the tubes which is quite easy to do if you don't line them up straight.
I did mine with the carburetors, dynamo and manifold removed so I didn't have any issue with access, but I don't know if it's possible or just a bit more awkward otherwise.
Thanks to everyone who posted for the advice and encouragement.
Please visit the Club's website https://www.dloc.org.uk/ to join. Visit https://www.dloc.org.uk/adhoc to DONATE towards the cost of the forum.
Please don't post someone's email address to avoid it being harvested by spambots and it's against GDPR regulations.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
CHANGED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS since registering?, click your username and check your address in User Control Panel, Profile, Account Settings.
If you want help to register, use "contact us" at page bottom for help.
Please don't post someone's email address to avoid it being harvested by spambots and it's against GDPR regulations.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
CHANGED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS since registering?, click your username and check your address in User Control Panel, Profile, Account Settings.
If you want help to register, use "contact us" at page bottom for help.
2.5 V8 Saloon Spark Plug Tubes
-
PatrickDixon
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:59 pm
- Location: Gloucestershire UK
Re: 2.5 V8 Saloon Spark Plug Tubes
Thanks for the info, Patrick! Whereabouts are you located? It looks like that part of your profile hasn't been completed.
Tom
Tom
-
PatrickDixon
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:59 pm
- Location: Gloucestershire UK
Re: 2.5 V8 Saloon Spark Plug Tubes
I'm in the south west UK Tom. I have updated my profile now.
Re: 2.5 V8 Saloon Spark Plug Tubes
Patrick, it seems one of us had upside down tubes, when I removed mine I assumed they had never been removed as the mileage was about 60K and genuine and had copper washer seals.
Owner since the 70's, Genghis is slightly to my left.
-
PatrickDixon
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:59 pm
- Location: Gloucestershire UK
Re: 2.5 V8 Saloon Spark Plug Tubes
Hmm, maybe I'll do the other 4 the other way up and see which side the car pulls to ...
-
PatrickDixon
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:59 pm
- Location: Gloucestershire UK
Re: 2.5 V8 Saloon Spark Plug Tubes
I have the other 4 tubes out now (just 1 washer in this side, 3 missing). So before I put them back and change the other ones around, are we all agreed that the correct way round is with the end with the longer thread (with the un-threaded section at it's end) up - ie at the rocker cover?
Like the photo below with the rocker cover nut at the 'correct' end.
Like the photo below with the rocker cover nut at the 'correct' end.
- Attachments
-
Re: 2.5 V8 Saloon Spark Plug Tubes
I just replaced the copper washers in the plug tubes on my car. Well, actually, I just fitted copper washers to the plug tubes in my car, as there were none there to begin. Some well-meaning DPO had smeared silicone around the tubes where they meet the head, and it took a while to remove that while ensuring no loose pieces remained to block an oil passage (here's to hoping I got it all!). Once they are in place, you can clearly see them when looking down the tube. I used the oil-fill nut and a head-securing nut to get them out, which went well, except that 3R & 4R had tubes that were clearly somewhat egg-shaped, likely related to the pipe-wrench marks found on all of the tubes, again likely from that well-meaning DPO. I still have to adjust the tappets and replace the heater hoses before hitting the road, so no word on whether that has solved my "oil in the tubes" problem.
As for orientation, it seemed to me that both ends had the same threaded length, but one end had a non-threaded piece that extended beyond the threads. My engine had that longer end inserted into the head on all 8 cylinders, and that's how I put them back in, as it seemed to me that was the only way to have the tube properly make contact with the copper washer before the threads bottomed out. I was able to do the job with a proper 1-5/8" wrench, a large adjustable was simply too big to fit.
Tom
As for orientation, it seemed to me that both ends had the same threaded length, but one end had a non-threaded piece that extended beyond the threads. My engine had that longer end inserted into the head on all 8 cylinders, and that's how I put them back in, as it seemed to me that was the only way to have the tube properly make contact with the copper washer before the threads bottomed out. I was able to do the job with a proper 1-5/8" wrench, a large adjustable was simply too big to fit.
Tom