SP250 windscreen rebuild

[heh101353]

Final update:

With lots of silicone spray and two more hands we managed to push the bottom rubber through the groove.

Brought the thing together with ratchet straps.
At some point I feared the glass would break.


Rebuild windscreen ready to be cleaned and to be put back on the car.

Hi, I have replaced a few Dart windscreens over the years. Triplex manufacture these and they distribute through Charles Pugh tel. 01773 581 458.
I believe the part no. is either HTO 103 CL or 4306 ACL.
In the past I have contacted C. Pugh and they have delivered to my nearest supplier of windscreens, who have then sold to me.
I do not know what D M. charge ,but I would think this route may well be cheaper.

Dave.

The stickers found on the screen




Thanks to all of you for your kind support.
Hans

[rogerharrop]

Well I'm on with "the worst job on the Dart" and I have just completed the reassembly of the frame with new corner joints before glazing and have put the bottom rubber on. I must thank Paul for the brilliant recommendation to use Screwfix plastic pipe lubricant - it works like a dream!

A question please: when I finally come to fit the screen back on the car should I put any sort of sealer under the bottom rubber or do you just rely on it being pulled down sufficiently to seal perfectly on the body?

Many thanks

Roger

[heh101353]

When I removed the assembly there was no sealant between the body and the seal. So I did not apply any at reassembly.
Just the rubber only makes a perfect seal. Watch out that the outer lip slides down nicely when you put the assembly back onto the body.
There is quite some travel downwards until everything is tightened down and the lip has a tendency to roll inward.
Hans

[rogerharrop]

Many thanks Hans

[Bud]

Do not forget to reinstall all 5 of the aluminum spacers over the studs in the lower body to frame gasket. If left out the angle of the windscreen will be wrong and you could very easily crack the windscreen from over tightening the fasteners from under the dash cowling. I had only 3 when I changed one and made my replacements from some similar ali tubing. They ended up being 2-3 mm shy of my gaskets spacing to the frame. This allows for even seating pressure across the frame to the body.

[rogerharrop]

Hi Hans,
I'm confused on the small distance pieces betwen the screen and the body. If you order them you get three - just for the front bolts but some people are saying you need five. Hans how many did you use?

Many thanks

Roger

[heh101353]

Sorry for not replying earlier.

I used NONE.
First of all there weren't any when I took the assembly off the body. Second I didn't knew there should be some.
I was concerned about the angle of the screen. That's why I came up with that raw jig made out of wood to make sure I can reproduce the angle.
Turned out I could have done without.
The screen tilts back and forth anyway when you fasten or unfasten the hood.
Two years later and 6000 miles down the road, no cracks.
Nonetheless a good idea is to not tighten the assembly fully down right away. Drive around a bit, let it settle for some time before the final tightening.
Hans

[rogerharrop]

Thanks Hans

[dart25oashton]

Hi, piggybacking onto this really helpful thread with a request for help/advice please.
We are currently looking at fitting a folding hood to our 1963 Dart which has only had a hardtop until now. We are struggling to get the right compromise of screen frame curvature, pull down of frame to the body, angle of the frame/door windows, and alignment to roof front clips…
In order to engage the 3x roof clips correctly the angle of the screen is required to be steeper than with the hard top …and as a result the lower curved corners of the screen frame are not in contact with the body!
Any recommendations on the right sequence/angle etc to etc welcomed.
James

[heh101353]

Unfortunately I cannot comment on how the hardtop fits and the differences you encounter when using the “rag” top.
Went downstairs to take a picture which might be of some help.



The distance from the slot of the right outer clamp bracket to the pivot point center of the hood frame
reads 745mm.
The lower curved corners of the screen are in perfect contact with the seal/body.
Hope this gives an indication on the angle of the screen.

Hans