Fresh Air Vent

[bobtills]

The Fresh Air Vent on my 1968 250 is rusted up. The grill has bits missing & there is very little left of the rubber seal.

Water has obviously been getting in through here for years during previous ownerships and the fresh air vent and it's actuating lever is very stiff - it moves a bit and the vent moves a bit but really doesn't want to - it you pull it up from the outside it moves a bit further but I don't think it goes anywhere near as far as it should. Moving the vent lever back leaves it open about a centimetre so I guess the rods have bent a bit too.

I've read that there is a flap in there somewhere which controls the recirculation or otherwise of the air and I don't think that's moving at all. And I guess there's some sort of drain? Which is blocked because when I wash the car I get a drip or two of water in the passenger footwell.

I can't move any of the heater controls either, although I think that is a different problem????

But how do you get to it? I looked behind the instruments and took off the dashboard top but there's nothing to be seen. I can't see any way of removing it from the outside of the car and if I have to undo (rusted) nuts & bolts by reaching up between the dashboard & the bulkhead I don't think my joints will let me.

Any advice would be very welcome.

[classiclife]

Hello Bob,

I presume you are speaking of the ventilation flap just below the windscreen ??

The fact you can move it slightly is promising. I had the same situation when I purchased my V8 saloon and to achieve a proper open and close action I used Plus Gas (PG) on all the hinges and links. You need to use this to break the rust down - using WD40 is a waste of time and will achieve nothing.

It will take a little while and it is a case of opening and closing, as much as you can, for the PG to work its way through which it will do along with spraying a bit more now & again; you need to do this on all the linkages / hinges etc - take your time and do not rush it.

The vent flap does need to opened and closed (once you have sorted yours) on a regular basis to prevent becoming stuck and I tend to use a grease spray as part of the cars service.

The arm that controls the open & close facility is angled and is probably okay although may not look it.

As you have highlighted, the access points are the centre cubby, the instrument panel dropped and the actual vent - with access to the vent via these 3x points you should be able to fully lubricate and free off the action.

Hope that assists ??

Good luck.

Richard.

[Alpine Daimler]

Hello Bob

This article, clearly written by a the god of MK II scuttle ventilators, may help : http://valvechatter.us/?p=4973

Richard's answer reads very promising, I remember when I overhauled my heater system I was glad my ventilator flap was unusually free as I never caught sight of the linkages and more importantly the hinge assemblies.

Wish you all the best and not to many scraped knuckles.

Rob C.

[bobtills]

Thanks Richard & Rob for the replies.

I can't see any way to get access to anything via the vent itself; is this perhaps because it isn't opening enough to get at whatever I need to get at? Does anyone have a photo of what mine should look like when it's open? With no shows going on (and Wales being behind England in letting us out to play) I can't have a look at one there.

And like I said, if access is 'up there somewhere' between the bulkhead & the dashboard my back won't be letting me do the job - can anyone recommend a man who can? From personal experience preferably but any suggestions would be very welcome

[classiclife]

Hello Bob,

Can you post a couple of photos to show the current situation on the vent, photos do provide an good insight.

Regards.

Richard.

[bobtills]

The first one shows how open it gets using the vent lever


This one shows how open it gets if you pull it up from the outside

[classiclife]

Hello Bob,

Thanks for the photos, I'm in the garage tomorrow and will take some photos for you and post on here.

They will show the lubrication points you need to access. As I said initially, the fact you can open your vent somewhat, looks promising.

Regards.

Richard.

[classiclife]

Hello Bob,

The vent will open to a max of approx. 30-35mm and that is what you are aiming for.

There is a vent pivot lever behind the instrument panel and this can be clearly seen on lowering that panel, that needs to be lubricated. I would run some thin oil on that and it will trickle downwards lubricating the fasteners as it travels. Place some rag in the centre cubby hole by the lever to accept the oil residue as it reaches the plastic fixing that has the word VENT on it.

The attached photos show where the operating rods are located within the scuttle and these will certainly need a good dose of Plus Gas to free them off. It really is a case of lengthy & repetitive opening & closing to work the fluid in to these areas; it's a sturdy bit of kit so you can give it some persuasion.

Do not worry about blasting the spray in this area, it will not hurt anything and any excess can be cleared if needs be when the vent opens properly. Ideally a direction tube attached to the nozzle will help get the spray where it is required but as I say no problem blasting the area. In fact any oily solution in there will be welcome !!

I hope the above and photos assist ??

Good luck.

Richard.

[bobtills]

Thanks Richard.

Thanks to your photos I have located those hinges but I can't see them like in your photos because they are totally obscured from vision by the instrument panel wiring. There seems to be movement in them and I have managed to wipe a finger covered in penetrating oil round them as well and I will repeat the treatment over the next few days.

I see that yours doesn't have the grille - did you remove this just for the photo? I have pulled a bit harder on my flap and can now see 3 cross headed screws under the flap which presumably hold the grille in place but they are very rusty and I doubt that they would unscrew easily and even if they did the grille will not pass between the panel in front of the windscreen and the flap as it doesn't open enough. So it will have to be destroyed, which is no loss as it's horrible and rusty but I won't be able to get a new one in until I solve the problem of the flap not opening enough!! Chicken & egg!

How and where is access to the flap's hinges to be had? And do you know if this mechanism is connected to anything else which I haven't seen which might be rusted up and preventing movement or if I can get to the flap's hinges will that be job done? Am I right in thinking that the flap in the heater box has nothing to do with this so even though it is solid I can ignore it for the moment? If I manage to remove the grille will I see the flap's hinges? And perhaps be able to remove the flap so that I can drill out the screws and tap new threads on the bench? I ask because I don't think the grille will unscrew so it will have to be destroyed and unless and until I can unscrew the screws I won't be able to fit a new one even if I get full movement on the flap - but maybe, as yours is shown without one, it is better not to have one?

You've been very helpful and I'm sorry to go on & on but I'm a bit stuck and have already damaged the paintwork a bit.

[johnwager]

Bob
There is another internal flap that should move at the same time as the outer flap, it allows the air to be recirculated.
If you have an aerosol easing oil or even WD40 with a straw attached squirt it through the outer grille all along, so that everything gets a good soak. Just keep working the flap up and down and also using the internal lever.
John