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Removing Rear Hubs (Was - Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan)

Sporty
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 8:34 pm
Location: Cardiff

Removing Rear Hubs (Was - Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan)

Post by Sporty »

Well, the time has come around for the dreaded hubs to come off. I've read so much online about the difficulty in removing them and the damage that can occur to the shafts if unsuccessful, that I'm rather worried about attempting it. So, I think that by far the best option, rather than to make half-hearted attempts with inadequate equipment, is to do it properly first time using the correct tool. With that in mind, I'd very much appreciate if someone could either rent/loan me one for a day or two (I would willingly pay a deposit and if you want a fee too, that's fine) and obviously I'd pay for carriage in both directions if you're too far from Cardiff. Does anyone have one available...Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Sporty on Tue Sep 15, 2020 8:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Parts I need for the Daimler V8 250 (at a reasonable price if possible please) -
Front Bumper, seats, one splined wheel hub F/O/S, exhausts.

Christopher Storey
Posts: 307
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 6:40 pm
Location: Cheshire

Re: Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan.

Post by Christopher Storey »

I recommend that you take the axle out ( not that difficult ) and take it to an engineering workshop . Failing that, try the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club hire service . I am sure they do this tool

Ian Slade
Wise Man
Wise Man
Posts: 575
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:54 am
Location: Scotland

Re: Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan.

Post by Ian Slade »

I wonder whether it is worth taking the process the marine industry use on taper fits, they have a hole drilled and tapped into the hub (propellor) to screw in a hydraulic fitting, to remove the hub, remove fitting blank, screw in fitting and hydraulic hose attached to an Enerpac, pump up to about 5000 psi then with a hub puller it should pop off. The process should just stretch the hub to release the taper.
Owner since the 70's, Genghis is slightly to my left.

daimlersteve
Helpful Person
Helpful Person
Posts: 421
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:20 am

Re: Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan.

Post by daimlersteve »

I do have those hub pullers, l/h r/h for both saloons and sps ( different spline size ) tad distant though .

Sporty
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 8:34 pm
Location: Cardiff

Re: Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan.

Post by Sporty »

OK, thank you for the suggestions guys. From your comments DaimlerSteve, you're not near Cardiff then! Cheers anyway.
I guess the hydraulic option is good for 'next' time, but hopefully this will not be required again!
I have contacted the JEC (Jaguar Enthusiasts Club) in Bristol (40mins from me) who apparently loan these out to members. I will report back when they reply.
Parts I need for the Daimler V8 250 (at a reasonable price if possible please) -
Front Bumper, seats, one splined wheel hub F/O/S, exhausts.

bobtills
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2019 6:05 pm
Location: North Wales

Re: Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan.

Post by bobtills »

Hi Sporty

I see you want seats for your Daimler. Unfortunately I don't have any and am looking to refurbish the ones I have as they are a bit past it, but I'm having trouble finding someone who can do it for me at a reasonable price.

My seats have 19 pleats and the 'off the shelf' covers all seem to be 16 pleats, and as only the front ones need doing they then wouldn't match the rear ones. I can have them custom made but was quoted £3,000 !!!

So if during your search you speak to someone you think might be able to help please could you pass the info on? Thanks :)

Sporty
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 8:34 pm
Location: Cardiff

Re: Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan.

Post by Sporty »

Hey Bobtills,
Yes, of course I will. My seats are unfortunately pretty much shot and will require recovering, but then the one's I'm seeing for sale on eBay, despite being far better than mine, still require recovering, so no benefit at all really. At this rate, I'm either going to end up sitting on a soap box, or using 'non-standard' seats from a Ford Fiesta!!
Cheers, Steve
Parts I need for the Daimler V8 250 (at a reasonable price if possible please) -
Front Bumper, seats, one splined wheel hub F/O/S, exhausts.

Sporty
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 8:34 pm
Location: Cardiff

Re: Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan.

Post by Sporty »

Hey guys, well, I didn't manage to get a Churchill puller, so I did what I've always done, make do :D and yesterday I had an opportunity to attempt to remove the rear axle hubs. I am going to replace all of the seals and gaskets on the rear axle, so to do this the removal of the hubs is required. Another reason to remove them is that they are for the 5 stud steel wheels, and not the new wire wheels I’ve just bought, so they had to come off regardless. The removal of hubs in general is not easy, and the shallow taper of the shafts on these old Jaguars/Daimlers made them so tight and difficult to remove. I did try to obtain a loan of one of these, but they are very difficult to source, so I bought the best puller I could afford and used other recommended techniques which also help. The first thing I’d been told was to reverse and leave on the castellated nut on the end of the shaft as the threaded end can mushroom or balloon such is the pressure involved. Then I’d read to insert a copper or bronze spacer between the pushrod of the puller and the end of the shaft. This apparently acts as a buffer between the two steel surfaces to stop damage. I didn’t have any copper rod or bronze, so I used a couple of old pennies instead. They were perfect as they are the same diameter as the shaft and just fitted inside the nut. I drilled holes in them so that the pointed end of the puller didn’t wander.

Image

To prevent the hub rotating as I tightened the puller, I chopped a bit of angle iron to act as a stop. But then the puller legs wouldn’t sit straight on the hub because of the thickness of the steel under two of them, so I had to make up three spacers for the remaining legs to ensure the whole assembly sat flat and true. Initially I heated up the hub with a blowtorch, but then also enlisted the help of my hot air gun too. I set both up to direct their heat at the assembly and left for an hour.

Image

Things got hot, too hot to touch that’s for sure, but not as hot as I’d have liked. The problem is that it’s a lot of metal to heat, and it’s hard to add heat quicker than the large circular heatsink can dissipate it. Anyhow, I started to increase the pressure on the puller with the aid of my 24” breaker bar, stopping after every quarter turn to give it a good whack in an attempt to shock it off. Just as I got to the point where I thought that something was going to get damaged, there was an almighty ‘crack’ and the hub popped off. To say I was jubilant would be somewhat of an understatement. I disassembled it all and everything looked good with no damage to the shaft which is the best news.

Image

Armed with my ‘winning formula’ it was time to try on the other side. The pennies were destroyed, so I had to replace those and all went exactly the same except the hub popped off without quite so much pressure required. All in all a fantastic result. Others have really struggled, so it was a job I’d not been looking forward to. Here’s a link to a video of a guy called Vic attempting the same job. His YouTube streams are quite interesting and entertaining. It will give you an idea of just how difficult this job can be and well worth a watch.

Click Me, Click Me!!!

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So the rear hubs are off and I removed the front ones too. The fronts are a piece of cake in comparison, the hub nut on this design isn’t even tightened up. When assembling them, you tighten until the wheel has just a little bit of resistance, and then back it off a turn, then pop in the split pin. It’s quite unnerving that it’s all so loose, but apparently it’s because the bearings heat up quite a bit in use, and they would start to bind once warmed up. One other unusual thing I found is that the rear disks are actually a larger diameter than the fronts. I’ve never seen that before.

Image

I now need to get the disks to someone who can give them a quick skim, not so much because they are worn (in fact there appears to be next to no wear at all) but just to clean them up a little and ensure they are true with no throw. Although I just saw a pair of new ones (fronts or rears) on eBay for around the £70 mark, so I may choose that option depending on the cost of skimming.
Parts I need for the Daimler V8 250 (at a reasonable price if possible please) -
Front Bumper, seats, one splined wheel hub F/O/S, exhausts.

armstrong whitworth
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 10:59 pm

Re: Removing Rear Hubs (Was - Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan)

Post by armstrong whitworth »

Hello Sporty

Thanks for an informative and detailed post - good news to hear that the job can be done (at least in your case) without the Churchill tool. By the way, what puller did you use? I've seen reference to the OTC version from the US
https://gb-jbtools.glopalstore.com/otc-7394-hub-puller/
being up to the job (once 2 additional legs are added) but yours is different again.

Regards

AW

Sporty
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 8:34 pm
Location: Cardiff

Re: Removing Rear Hubs (Was - Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan)

Post by Sporty »

Thanks AW,
I bought this one from Amazon -

Kraftmann 7682 | Brake Drum Extractor / Drive Shaft Push Out Tool, 5-legs | universal

It appeared to be a similar design as the one you mention, which I have also seen being successful at removing the hubs. I chose this one because of the reasonable price (£43), it already had 5 legs and the good thing about Amazon is that if things had gone badly wrong and the thing had been destroyed, they will always give you a refund.

Cheers, Steve
Parts I need for the Daimler V8 250 (at a reasonable price if possible please) -
Front Bumper, seats, one splined wheel hub F/O/S, exhausts.

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