Checking my records it appears when the diff seal was replaced the garage used EP140 oil, as it's a worm drive I'm pretty certain it shouldn't be EP as it will damage the brass. I therefore need to replace the oil with a suitable type.
1. Any recommendations/experience?
2. I will need to get the oil hot but has anyone had this problem and used any kind of flush to make sure, I really don't want to strip out the diff, but equally need to make sure I don't exacerbate the problem
3. How quickly will the brass be attacked, can it wait until winter?
Thanks in advance
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DB 18 rear axle
Re: DB 18 rear axle
http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/
These guys have what you need.
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Peter
These guys have what you need.
Get 10% off your order if you quote DLOC888 ON YOUR ORDER.
Peter
Peter Langridge
Cloud Nine Classic Weddings, Nottingham.
Cloud Nine Classic Weddings, Nottingham.
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- Wise Man
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Re: DB 18 rear axle
Whilst it is quite true you must never use a sulphur-based "EP" oil in any application with phosphor-bronze components, many oil blends are quite safe nowadays - but you MUST check carefully, and if in doubt, junk what is in your axle.
To flush the axle is quite a rigmarole - early Daimler instuction books advocated parrafin, but I suggest jacking the car up, draining out the 140 oil and replenish with engine oil, then chock one wheel to ensure the differential is activated, and run at tick-over for (say) ten minutes to churn up and dilute any remaining 140. Do not of course ever run the axle under any load without the correct lubricant.
Then leave to horoughly drain. (In my case, I then flush with a small amount of petrol and just run for a few minutes - but I'm not going to tell you that). Leave well to evaporate, and refill with a synthetic 140 oil - but again check with the oil company as to suitability for a worm drive.
The advantage of a synthetic gear oil is better film strength but with much lower drag.
To flush the axle is quite a rigmarole - early Daimler instuction books advocated parrafin, but I suggest jacking the car up, draining out the 140 oil and replenish with engine oil, then chock one wheel to ensure the differential is activated, and run at tick-over for (say) ten minutes to churn up and dilute any remaining 140. Do not of course ever run the axle under any load without the correct lubricant.
Then leave to horoughly drain. (In my case, I then flush with a small amount of petrol and just run for a few minutes - but I'm not going to tell you that). Leave well to evaporate, and refill with a synthetic 140 oil - but again check with the oil company as to suitability for a worm drive.
The advantage of a synthetic gear oil is better film strength but with much lower drag.
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Re: DB 18 rear axle
Peter and Stan, thank you both for your advice. I best crack on with this then!
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- Posts: 219
- Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2016 1:07 pm
- Location: Wiltshire
Re: DB 18 rear axle
Golden Film AG 140 ordered and with the discount as well, great service from the Morris Technical Team.
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- Helpful Person
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Re: DB 18 rear axle
I believe GL4 is OK, as distinct from GL5 which is not.
Ivor
Ivor
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Re: DB 18 rear axle
Finally got around to do the job - thanks for the advice. The oil that came out was fairly dark and some evidence of brass/bronze flecks settling in the bottom of the drain pan. The engine oil flush worked well although I was surprised how the wheels turned when not in gear, must be lots of drag through the oil and gearbox. Didn't even need to put it in gear to get it all moving. The top up with correct oil was relatively easy. The benefit was that the dampers could be topped up at the same time.
Anyone topped up the front in-situ and got any tips as the wing covers the top section?
Anyone topped up the front in-situ and got any tips as the wing covers the top section?