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Conquest Century jump start

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BigJAK
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Location: North Wales

Conquest Century jump start

Post by BigJAK »

With the battery being in back under a plate, is there any points I can connect to to jump start without having to take seat and battery cover out?
Thanks

NickDeAth
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by NickDeAth »

I don't know the Conquest but here goes. Any good earth will do, I don't know if yours is positive or negative, preferably on the engine, a lifting bracket or something like that. The other lead needs to go on the solenoid or starter terminal where the normal battery lead connects to. If those points are not accessible it may be worth putting your own connection point/points somewhere where you can get at them. A lot of modern cars have this arrangement because manufacturers put the batteries in awkward places.

Hope this helps.

Nick.
"Nick - do you think you will ever put that old car back together again?"

Sydsmith
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by Sydsmith »

Nick, I think the issue these days is the elf and safety man, new rules dictate the battery, like the fuel tank should be out of danger in the case of a collision.

Good idea to fit a discreet post for the none earth connection, my M/Benz has two very convenient posts for jump starting from. It's fairly new so I don't have a problem but friends and family seem to find a way to my door when a flat battery is suspected. Syd

Christopher Storey
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by Christopher Storey »

Whatever you do , don't attempt to jump it from a vehicle with opposite polarity

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keef
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by keef »

Christopher Storey wrote: Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:55 am Whatever you do , don't attempt to jump it from a vehicle with opposite polarity
Why? I understand it would be a bit confusing putting the leads on and the vehicles mustn't touch each other
but if you + to + and - to - why is it any different from jumping from a spare battery?

HenryC
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by HenryC »

It's not different. Safe as long as you know what you are doing.
Cheers, Henry Curwen
Registrar for Conquest & Century Saloons (DJ250/1, DJ256/7, DJ260/1)

Conquest (Drop Head) Coupe DJ252

NickDeAth
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by NickDeAth »

I've just had another thought. You could use an Anderson SBE plug. You could mount the car end either in the boot or under the bonnet. The other would have the jump cables and crocodile clips on. The only thing to remember when doing this is to connect the clips to the slave battery first and then plug it into your car. If you don't do it that way there is a danger that the 2 clips could come together and short out your battery.

Nick
"Nick - do you think you will ever put that old car back together again?"

Christopher Storey
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by Christopher Storey »

Well, I agree that if you used a disconnected battery there is no harm, but doesn't the trouble potentially come with a still connected " donor" battery if the "donee" car starts, and the dynamo starts to backfeed charge to the negative earth ( and presumably alternator equipped ) "Donor" car ?

Peter Grant
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by Peter Grant »

Just a thought, but when my Century (auto) was having failing battery problems i would have to occasionally crank it over and that worked a treat.
Wasn't particularly difficult, just make sure the car is in neutral with the hand brake on if pre-select or in Park with the hand brake on if automatic.
Peter Grant

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keef
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Re: Conquest Century jump start

Post by keef »

Christopher Storey wrote: Tue Jan 28, 2020 11:36 am Well, I agree that if you used a disconnected battery there is no harm, but doesn't the trouble potentially come with a still connected " donor" battery if the "donee" car starts, and the dynamo starts to backfeed charge to the negative earth ( and presumably alternator equipped ) "Donor" car ?
No, this explains it quite well:

There is no absolute 'earth'. In fact, the more correct term is 'common' for the common frame the accessories are 'earthed' to. That's why you don't need a special battery in a positive ground car, you just connect the positive terminal to the chassis instead of the negative.
If you think about it, since electricity travels in a circuit both terminals are 'hot' it's just that one terminal is made common so that it's convenient to (electrically) attach things like starters and generators to it (else you'd need two cables to all electrical components and everything would have to be thoroughly insulated) so the chassis is used as part of the 'wiring' of the car.

If you connect neg-pos battery terminals from a negative earth car to a positive earth car and connect the two chassis you're connecting the circuits in series and you'd get 24V across your components (similar to connecting two 6V batteries in series to get 12V). Your starter would spin like crazy ... for a couple seconds. If you connect neg-neg and pos-pos you're making the connection in parallel, which combines the available current from both sources but the potential (voltage) remains the same (12V).

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