Years ago when I were a lad I had a Morris 8 with Lockheed brakes, the shoes were badly worn and the pedal travel horrendous, pennies were very short and I discovered that I could adjust the master cylinder rod to reduce the travel and got a big improvement.
All went well until madam took the car to town and whilst parking the car the pedal went solid and the car just would not move, she had to abandon it and come home on the bus.
Turned out that I had adjusted the rod too far out and taken it past the point where the return valve was situated, the fluid went down but could not get back and jammed the brakes on.
Just a thought. Syd
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LA10 Brakes
Re: LA10 Brakes
Yes I also owned a Morris 8, 4,seat Tourer, that why I drive a Lanchester with Rod Brakes !!! Nuff said ???
Cheers Big Bad A'l
Cheers Big Bad A'l
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- Extremely Wise Man
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Re: LA10 Brakes
Quite right Al, when it comes to repair and maintenance rod brakes win every time, as long as you take great care with the setting up and balance.
When it comes to problems, hydraulics are a pain, but they do have superior stopping power per ounce of effort, when properly set up. (in my humble opinion)
Back in the 60's I bought the Morris 8 for £5, fitted a second hand rear spring, painted it with Japlac, got it through the MOT and madam drove it to work 3 miles each way, winter and summer, for several years, sold it for £25 four years later.
When it comes to problems, hydraulics are a pain, but they do have superior stopping power per ounce of effort, when properly set up. (in my humble opinion)
Back in the 60's I bought the Morris 8 for £5, fitted a second hand rear spring, painted it with Japlac, got it through the MOT and madam drove it to work 3 miles each way, winter and summer, for several years, sold it for £25 four years later.
Re: LA10 Brakes
After all of this time the brakes have been fixed. I did my back in so that stopped play for a bit! I took it to a local classic car garage and they found that the master cylinder was sometimes sticking open. Not fully closing after the pedal was released so the pressure stayed on. It seems that the rod between the pedal and the master cylinder was the wrong one and that could have been changed at any time. They changed the profile to stop it sticking and shortened it to give some room for adjustment in the future. I would never have found that scrabbling around on the floor.
Thanking everyone for their interest and advice.
Chrisb
Thanking everyone for their interest and advice.
Chrisb