Does anyone know how the centre boss of the steering wheel comes off? I need to renew the horn and turn signal wiring which runs up inside the steering column, but I'm stuck getting at it . The horn button just pulls off to reveal two small brass screws that hold the contacts, but these just turn without unscrewing. I can only assume it's an interference fit but I've tried to prise off the whole thing and it hasn't moved. Any ideas?

If it’s the same as the lj 200, the screws go through a metal plate that’s fixed to the stator tube, which goes through your steering box and as a olive at the bottom that needs to be removed before pulling the whole lot out. Word of warning, the centre is made of Bakelite and there are 2 springs in there, it can be a bit of a minefield as a learnt earlier in the year, if you search back in subjects you should find more sources of info.

This will help as is the LD10 web site

http://ld10.awardspace.com/controls/control.htm

Managed to pull this up, as you say, a bit of a minefield

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1831&p=10073&hilit= ... ing#p10073

Will look better if you look on the page of the ld10 website

Norfolk Lad wrote: ↑Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:11 pm This will help as is the LD10 web site

http://ld10.awardspace.com/controls/control.htm

I think I'd better try this when I'm having a good day!

It looks like my original article for the LD10 site has been modified and added to.

THIS IS IMPORTANT and seems to have been deleted.

When you get as far as removing the olive and disconnecting the wires from the junction box, BEFORE you pull the stator tube out, tie some strong twine around the wires sticking out of the stator. you need about 6 feet. This will greatly assist you when replacing the stator in the instance that it the wires might get a bit stuck. You can then pull it through the column with the twine.

Also, prior to replacing the stator, smear the outside with light oil.

Believe me, been there and done all that hence the article I originally wrote.

Cheers
Neil

I don't have your article on this Neil, this one was from a friend with an Austin Healey trying to explain for my strip down.

let me know where the addition needs to be and i will add it (I think it should be at point 4 at the beginning and towards the end of assembly)

theoldman wrote: ↑Tue Nov 14, 2017 9:25 pm It looks like my original article for the LD10 site has been modified and added to.

THIS IS IMPORTANT and seems to have been deleted.

When you get as far as removing the olive and disconnecting the wires from the junction box, BEFORE you pull the stator tube out, tie some strong twine around the wires sticking out of the stator. you need about 6 feet. This will greatly assist you when replacing the stator in the instance that it the wires might get a bit stuck. You can then pull it through the column with the twine.

Also, prior to replacing the stator, smear the outside with light oil.

Believe me, been there and done all that hence the article I originally wrote.

Cheers
Neil

Apologies in advance if the following is already known to you or readily available elsewhere but it can save a lot of time and bother if the switch unit is working ok apart from needing the wires replaced. Once you have the control unit in your hand and you have removed the stator tube, you'll see the four wires connected to the back of the switch unit. One wire goes to the horn push and when the push is pressed, to earth. It can be removed immediately with no complications, it is just a nut and bolt connection.

The other 3 are the trafficator feed and two supplies. First of all, note whether the wire ends are covered with solder. If they are, they could be original or have been replaced properly. Under the solder are small nuts and the solder should be melted off first before attempting to slacken them. Once the nuts are visible, proceed as follows. Move the trafficator switch lever so that the end of it you can't see is going to cover the terminal you are working with. The lever in that position will prevent the brass terminal screw from falling out when you disconnect the nut and the wire. Take off one of the three wires at a time and replace them one at a time, only moving the lever again once you have the new wire secured in position.

If you allow the lever to move from the position you are working at, at least one brass post will fall into the works and you will have to take it apart and you will wish you had never started because it is one of the most annoying jobs that is avoidable.
Written with good wishes!

I've finally managed to get around to doing this job, and it wasn't as horrendous as I thought it would be.
The only way to get the olive off was to saw through it diagonally until it could be prised apart with a screwdriver and with the blunt end of a hammer handle the stator tube can be pushed up.
On trying to pull it out into the cab I discovered it wasn't in two pieces as shown on the LD10 site, and it had reached the the back of the car and still not cleared the steering column, so I had to unscrew the three small screws in situ.
After that it was a case of dismantling the whole assembly, because the left indicator didn't work and I'd traced the fault right back to the switch itself. This turned out to be the brass fitting that held the green wire had been badly worn down and wasn't making contact with the back of the switch, so I took it out of its housing, turned it 180 degrees and popped it back in. With everything dismantled it made it a lot easier to renew the wires, which had a slightly smaller outside diameter than the old ones.
This turned out to be rather fortuitous, as when I'd pulled the old wiring through the steering column, I'd attached a six foot length of fishing line and pulled that through too. When I went to pull the new wires through it managed to snap halfway. Luckily they were a looser fit than the old wires so I managed to push the whole lot through from the cab end.
Then it was just a case of soldering on the bullets and connecting the wiring at the steering box end. Oh, and it helps if you put the new olive (9.5 mm olives are available at £1.75 for 10 off Ebay), and nut over the wiring before you do this. D'oh!
It also helps if you check before you put everything back together that the self cancelling works. In my case, needless to say, it didn't. To cut a long story short, it turned out to be that I'd forgotten to put a tiny dab of grease on the two triggers, and being dry was just enough to stop them working.
Hopefully this helps if anyone is going to do this job, it's not that bad, just a bit fiddly.
Sid