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Cylinder head removal Ld10

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Minxy
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 7:25 pm

Cylinder head removal Ld10

Post by Minxy » Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:56 pm

Good day one and all.

I am trying to remove the cylinder head on my Ld10 and to date it is not budging one bit and I wondered if anyone on here had experience of shifting a stubborn head themselves and could give any pointers?

I’m an ex motorsport engineer so I know my way round cars and engines so I am 99% sure everything is undone it just will not budge on the studs. I have tried most generic methods of shifting it and the next step is to be removing the front end ( wings etc) to get better access but was curious if someone had had a similar problem and how they managed to free it before I go down this route.
Thanks

John Hitchins
Site Admin
Posts: 214
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 10:52 am
Location: Wellington Somerset

Re: Cylinder head removal Ld10

Post by John Hitchins » Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:21 pm

I have just had this problem on my DB18, I believe the studs may have expanded with rust but what ever expanded them they seized to the head. I had no alternative but to drill each one out, it took hours plus many drill bits and one electric drill Horrendous job all because a valve stuck.

Best of luck but it was my only answer.
John

Simon Hyslop
Posts: 262
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 3:30 pm

Re: Cylinder head removal Ld10

Post by Simon Hyslop » Mon Jul 29, 2019 11:37 pm

Remove the rocker shaft and attach a steel bar or bars to the rocker studs. Attach it or them to an engine crane and lift the car just off its front wheels using the crane. Hopefully after a while the head will have separated from the block.

This assumes the engine mounts are in good order. If it hasn't separated in 2 or 3 days, it's going to require more drastic action. Lifting the whole thing like this used to be the way to get side valve alloy heads off blocks.
You might want to try turning the engine by the handle while it's up to see if it helps.
I have had my one off but it came apart without any problems. Watch out, once it's off, for the very small core plugs in both the head and the block face. Mine were the source of a slight coolant leak into the cylinders. They can be bought reasonably from a firm called Core Plugs International who keep all common sizes in 1/16" increments.
Watch out for the split spring rings that stop the valves falling out once the collets are removed. Trying to hammer the valve out with the rings in place will crack a guide.

grahamemmett
Posts: 686
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:12 pm
Location: Northwich, Cheshire
Contact:

Re: Cylinder head removal Ld10

Post by grahamemmett » Tue Jul 30, 2019 1:49 am

It never ceases to amaze me - the wealth of knowledge and experience shared in this forum.
Graham Emmett
Northwich, Cheshire
Joint DB18 Registrar (with Marcel Renshaw)
DB18 1949 LCV522 (Yes that one with the P100s)
https://www.db18.org

JT7196
Posts: 1059
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 7:22 am

Re: Cylinder head removal Ld10

Post by JT7196 » Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:30 pm

Hi, I suppose if you were to remove the spark plugs pour some oil into each Bore ,and spin the engine over, it may? be possible to Hydraulic it off.
But not sure whether it’s possible to damage Con Rods etc, what does the “ Team”: think ???
Give the studs a liberal coating of WD 40 for a few days first .

Cheers Al 😊

Sydsmith
Posts: 843
Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2016 11:15 pm
Location: Aberystwyth Wales

Re: Cylinder head removal Ld10

Post by Sydsmith » Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:40 pm

There is always the old rope trick but I have never tried it.

Get some flexible rope that you can feed into the spark plug hole and force as much as you can into each cylinder, lashings of plus gas down the threads crank the engine over and the upward force will lift the head, or so they say.

The other alternative and I have never seen them is a hollow cylindrical cutting drill which fits over the stud and drills out a fine ring round the stud and removes the rust, sounds like with plenty of oil it should work as long as you can get the right drill.

I have to say that heating the studs with a blow torch to red hot several times tons of plus gas and lift with an engine crane has worked for me. Hope you solve your problem Syd

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