Hi all, I wonder if I could ask for your advice. I’m commissioning my LD 10 after a long restoration partially done by my dad. The brakes just do not pull up at all well and I’m standing on the pedal with partial braking..... it stops but ... errrr... not right.
So I looked at the front adjustment top and bottom, both seem ok and the drum just spins. Taking off the drum, I can see a little movement of the Brake shoes when I press the middle plunger at the top which is what I assume the cable pulls on? Is this enough?
I also notice that the shoes are not biting all round and the top part is not ‘cut back’ on the leading edges like say my Morris minor. If you agree, the shoes may be asbestos or what material. I have put some videos on this link to help you see what I see.
What do you think?
Best regards
Eric
Please visit the Club's website https://www.dloc.org.uk/ to join. Visit https://www.dloc.org.uk/adhoc to DONATE towards the cost of the forum.
Please don't post someone's email address to avoid it being harvested by spambots and it's against GDPR regulations.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
CHANGED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS since registering?, click your username and check your address in User Control Panel, Profile, Account Settings.
If you want help to register, use "contact us" at page bottom for help.
Please don't post someone's email address to avoid it being harvested by spambots and it's against GDPR regulations.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
CHANGED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS since registering?, click your username and check your address in User Control Panel, Profile, Account Settings.
If you want help to register, use "contact us" at page bottom for help.
LD10 brakes help please
LD10 brakes help please
- Attachments
-
- IMG_0564.MOV
- (1.95 MiB) Downloaded 62 times
-
- IMG_0563.MOV
- (1.56 MiB) Downloaded 46 times
-
- IMG_0562.MOV
- (1.92 MiB) Downloaded 41 times
-
- IMG_0561.MOV
- (1.48 MiB) Downloaded 51 times
Re: LD10 brakes help please
The amount of movement looks ample to me but I’m no expert on your model.
The linings look to have enough meat on them but have they been relined. If not then have they been contaminated at any time in the past and rendering them useless.
Have the drums been machined at any time or excessively worn. This would require thicker friction material over standard if they have been reshod. It would also cause uneven contact with the drum due to differences in diameter.
You can check the contact surface by chalking the shoes and then turning the drum with slight pressure to see where they rub. The friction material can then be fettled to suit. Suitable PPE Needed of course.
The thing about efficiency is what are you used to. I have both a 30’s car with cable and a 50’s 4x4 with drybollock and the amount of leg tension required is extreme. To the point of having to use body force against the seat and arm force pulling on the steering wheel. Saying that both vehicles have been MOT tested and lock up each of the wheels when needed. The secret is to drive with a gap and keep your eyes open.
The linings look to have enough meat on them but have they been relined. If not then have they been contaminated at any time in the past and rendering them useless.
Have the drums been machined at any time or excessively worn. This would require thicker friction material over standard if they have been reshod. It would also cause uneven contact with the drum due to differences in diameter.
You can check the contact surface by chalking the shoes and then turning the drum with slight pressure to see where they rub. The friction material can then be fettled to suit. Suitable PPE Needed of course.
The thing about efficiency is what are you used to. I have both a 30’s car with cable and a 50’s 4x4 with drybollock and the amount of leg tension required is extreme. To the point of having to use body force against the seat and arm force pulling on the steering wheel. Saying that both vehicles have been MOT tested and lock up each of the wheels when needed. The secret is to drive with a gap and keep your eyes open.
Colin,
I may be slow but I’m rough as well !
I may be slow but I’m rough as well !
Re: LD10 brakes help please
Hi Colin,
Good advice. Yes they were Re lined and the drums have not been machined. The idea of chalking is brilliant, I’ll have a go. I’m sure the linings should have a leading edge, seems only the top is touching the drum and the rest is still like new.
I have a mg TC so understand older brakes but this is my only rod brake car
Thank you
Good advice. Yes they were Re lined and the drums have not been machined. The idea of chalking is brilliant, I’ll have a go. I’m sure the linings should have a leading edge, seems only the top is touching the drum and the rest is still like new.
I have a mg TC so understand older brakes but this is my only rod brake car
Thank you
Re: LD10 brakes help please
there's a good youtube about LD10 brakes by Catherine Jones, an owner in Wales, she's done a few other ones on LD10 maintenance that are interesting as well
Tom
Tom
Re: LD10 brakes help please
Ok, fixed, I cut a leading edge in each brake shoe and they are much improved. Thank you for your opinions, this is what makes the forum so good. 
