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Bolt removal

Descriptive and in-depth articles on how to do repairs or restoration. (Wilf's articles visible by forum members only).
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New Dexter
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Bolt removal

Post by New Dexter »

I had thought it would be a simple job. Jack up the car, after undoing the wheel nuts, remove two bolts holding the callipers to the suspension and then replace the pads.
However, as with many jobs on a car it was like pulling a thread on an old jumper. First the wheel nuts were very tight, then I had to use a "Daimler Screwdriver" to remove the wheel from the hub and to add further irritation I could not undo the two 8mm bolts that hold the calliper in place.
The heads are 13mm AF and after all the years they do not have a perfect hexagonal shape. I tried to use the oxyacetylene but there is too much in the locality that is made of rubber and might suffer damage.
The callipers are ATE and thus one cannot remove the pads through the top, the callipers themselves must be removed. Given the circumstances does anyone have any suggestions please? I have considered welding larger nuts to the damage bolt heads.

Phillmore
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by Phillmore »

Copious amounts of penetrating fluid of your choice and time to soak in and a pair of stilsons if the bolts are scrap anyway?
Andy

1954 Conquest Mk1, 1956 Conquest Mk2, 1957 Conquest Century Mk2, 1955 Austin A90 Westminster

NickDeAth
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by NickDeAth »

As above plus if the hexagon is that bad find a socket which is slightly smaller and hammer it onto the bolt, that should make it nice and tight. If you have a selection of AF and imperial sockets you can usually find one to do the job. Of course you will then need new bolts.

Nick.
"Nick - do you think you will ever put that old car back together again?"

Vortex O'Plinth
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by Vortex O'Plinth »

Tried these? Bit expensive for a one-off job, but they do work.
Nick

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theoldman
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by theoldman »

How about one of those sockets which has pins inside? They are cheap enough.

I wouldn't be without mine - it was well worth the cost.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magical-Grip- ... Swa~BYa~Q3

Neil
Normal for Norfolk

Phillmore
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by Phillmore »

theoldman wrote: Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:33 pm How about one of those sockets which has pins inside? They are cheap enough.

I wouldn't be without mine - it was well worth the cost.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magical-Grip- ... Swa~BYa~Q3

Neil
Looks good but it doesn't say what size socket drive it is?
Andy

1954 Conquest Mk1, 1956 Conquest Mk2, 1957 Conquest Century Mk2, 1955 Austin A90 Westminster

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theoldman
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by theoldman »

Mines 1/2 inch
Neil
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Chris_R
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by Chris_R »

New Dexter wrote: Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:31 pm I could not undo the two 8mm bolts that hold the calliper in place.
The heads are 13mm AF and after all the years they do not have a perfect hexagonal shape.
8mm bolts and 13mm AF heads? You don't say what car it is but are you sure metric is correct? I would have expected Imperial sizes on a classic Daimler and a 1/2" head which is slightly smaller than 13mm. Using the wrong size socket or spanner can lead to rounded off heads as they apply forces at the wrong place.
Anyway, if you are using bi-hex sockets or spanners the area of grip is limited. Try a hex socket or spanner which will give a better grip on the head and allow more urge. Also, those Irwin removers are very good but limited to 3/8" drive only.

JT7196
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Re: Bolt removal

Post by JT7196 »

Why not purchase a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor, ???

Cheers A'l 😊😊😊☀️☀️

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