Hi Syd,
As Winnie the Pooh says; "Your braver than you believe, stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think"
The fact that you ponder over doing the job gives you the qualification to do it, because you are thinking it through.
Have a "read-up" on the 'net first as there's lots of guide articles, then with a methodical approach, theres no reason why you cannot re-laquer the wood parts on your car.
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Please don't post someone's email address to avoid it being harvested by spambots and it's against GDPR regulations.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
CHANGED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS since registering?, click your username and check your address in User Control Panel, Profile, Account Settings.
If you want help to register, use "contact us" at page bottom for help.
Woodwork
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- Wise Man
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- Location: Penkridge. Staffs.
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- Helpful Person
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 6:40 pm
- Location: Cheshire
Re: Woodwork
I did my 2.5 litre woodwork some years ago, using ( on the advice of a cabinet maker ) sanding sealer and I got a reasonable result by stripping the finish using a non-methylene chloride stripper, and then applying successive coats of sealer , rubbing down every 2nd or third coat with wire wool 0000 grade and/or 1200 wet and dry. The one drawback was that I found it very difficult to fill the grain
here is a before and after type photo - I had done the glovebox but not the instrument binnacle and here is the finished article
here is a before and after type photo - I had done the glovebox but not the instrument binnacle and here is the finished article
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- Helpful Person
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- Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2016 6:40 pm
- Location: Cheshire
Re: Woodwork
Perhaps I should add that I have just done all 72 pieces of wood on my mark IX Jaguar, this time using french polish with final coats of lacquer to protect it. The result is not perfect, but it shows what a rank amateur can do
From this To this
From this To this
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- Extremely Wise Man
- Posts: 1371
- Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2016 11:15 pm
- Location: Aberystwyth Wales
Re: Woodwork
Stan, Chris, many thanks for your encouragement. To continue the theme Stan, "feint heart never won fair lady".
Chris I enjoyed my try at french polishing and managed a similar standard of finish to your trim so that is an encouragement too.
Will have a go this winter and see what can be achieved, will let you know how I get on. Syd
Chris I enjoyed my try at french polishing and managed a similar standard of finish to your trim so that is an encouragement too.
Will have a go this winter and see what can be achieved, will let you know how I get on. Syd
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- Wise Man
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- Location: Penkridge. Staffs.
Re: Woodwork
Why not let your "feint heart win a fair lady" who's also a french polisher??
Re: Woodwork
Thank you Gentlemen for all your contributions. I have looked more carefully at the dashboard top rail and realised that it is not veneered but it's the dashboard wood sanded and polished. It has one woodworm hole on the top and I have treated all of the wood with woodworm killer. Some of which has been soaked in well.
I removed some floor wood, which turned out to be plywood and treated that too. The removal of the small panels revealed two more body to chassis bolts on each side just behind the B post. Strangely they were easy to remove but one wonders why any bodybuilder would use a countersink set screw of nearly 3" in length when only 1 1/4" on the thread would be used.
I removed some floor wood, which turned out to be plywood and treated that too. The removal of the small panels revealed two more body to chassis bolts on each side just behind the B post. Strangely they were easy to remove but one wonders why any bodybuilder would use a countersink set screw of nearly 3" in length when only 1 1/4" on the thread would be used.
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- Wise Man
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- Location: Worcestershire Herefordshire border
Re: Woodwork
I was just looking at the woodwork on my Mk1 Conquest and although I'd also always believed that the door cappings were solid wood rather than veneered it would appear this is not the case. Due to an age old windscreen seal leak the veneer is lifting on that corner of the dash AND the door capping and there is also a chip in the veneer of the door capping so it would appear that they are also veneered.
Andy
1954 Conquest Mk1, 1956 Conquest Mk2, 1957 Conquest Century Mk2, 1955 Austin A90 Westminster
1954 Conquest Mk1, 1956 Conquest Mk2, 1957 Conquest Century Mk2, 1955 Austin A90 Westminster
Re: Woodwork
Hi Chaps, welcome from a very hot and sunny Mexico
If my memory servers me correctly, Dave French is very knowledgeable on this subject, hopefully he may spot this thread and offer some of his excellent advice .
Cheers, now must get back to my Tequela Sunrise
If my memory servers me correctly, Dave French is very knowledgeable on this subject, hopefully he may spot this thread and offer some of his excellent advice .
Cheers, now must get back to my Tequela Sunrise
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- Wise Man
- Posts: 847
- Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 1:25 pm
- Location: Worcestershire Herefordshire border
Re: Woodwork
Just rub it in why don't you
Andy
1954 Conquest Mk1, 1956 Conquest Mk2, 1957 Conquest Century Mk2, 1955 Austin A90 Westminster
1954 Conquest Mk1, 1956 Conquest Mk2, 1957 Conquest Century Mk2, 1955 Austin A90 Westminster
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- Posts: 154
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:25 pm
- Location: Cheshire, UK
Re: Woodwork
If I can just briefly pick up on the question of the length of the bolts holding the body to the chassis behind the B posts - on the Special Sports each body/chassis bolt had a rubber piece, a shaped washer which compressed it, a normal nut and a locking nut - all of which used over an inch of what would otherwise appear to be surplus thread - so leaving only about half an inch once it`s all tightened up. I don`t know if yours should be the same.