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SP gearbox removal

Flinty
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 7:34 pm
Location: Scarborough

SP gearbox removal

Post by Flinty » Wed Nov 06, 2019 3:59 pm

I am about to remove the gearbox from my Dart, and I wondered whether anyone has got any tips that are not covered in the workshop manual.
The manual states to remove the starter motor after removing the exhaust pipe, Is it necessary to remove the pipe to remove the starter motor.

Any tips would be most helpful.

Steve.

Big Col
Posts: 427
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 12:45 pm
Location: Leeds

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by Big Col » Wed Nov 06, 2019 9:13 pm

In my experience taking the down pipe of and the starter are the easiest way round things.
Check the pointed tip bolt with the square head while on the clutch lever shaft While the box is out.
It’s not entirely necessary to take the driver seat out but if you are portly or of limited agility then it’s may make life easier if your workshop is at all confined.
Remember which way round the starter bolts go and flexible extension, ratchet spanner’s and short reach and long extension square drive sockets along with super slim sockets and ground down bent spanner’s will ease reaching some bolts.
The starter motor bolts are easiest put in with another pair of hand in the cabin.
Check and clean the earth straps and starter cable while your there.
Colin,
I may be slow but I’m rough as well !

Paulkennedy
Posts: 79
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2016 11:01 pm

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by Paulkennedy » Wed Nov 06, 2019 11:15 pm

I have my gearbox with overdrive out at the moment as I have rebuilt the gearbox. It makes life much easier if you do remove the down pipe so after removing the starter motor bolts the starter drops more or less straight down. I removed both driver and passenger seat and the steering wheel (I have rack and pinion so this is easy to do) this then gives a lot more room to man handle the gearbox out.The engine obviously needs to be supported under the sump when the gearbox is pulled back. If the prop shaft is disconnected both ends and dropped down this gives more room for the gearbox to be pulled back. The rear mountings have to come off together with the support bracket.The gearbox needs to be supported on a trolley jack before all the retaining bolts are removed. Once removed the gearbox needs to be pulled back and turned so that the clutch leaver is pointing down and the stater motor bulge is upper most otherwise it is very difficult to get the gearbox out as the leaver catches under the floor pan.

Good luck Paul K

silverdart
Posts: 166
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:49 am
Location: West Midlands

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by silverdart » Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:29 am

hi, I have always found that it is easier to remove the exhaust manifold rather than the exhaust downpipe, as the exhaust can be tricky particularly if it is a few years old.
I have only ever needed to uncouple the front propshaft bolts and then slide it back to clear the g/box flange.

Dave.

Ian Slade
Posts: 489
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:54 am
Location: Akrotiri Cyprus

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by Ian Slade » Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:22 pm

You don't need to remove the starter, just unbolt it and pull back the gearbox, you do need to align the starter before the gearbox is fully home as it can stop the gearbox fully fitting if the bendix is not aligned with its gearbox housing.
Owner since the 70's, Genghis is slightly to my left.

Flinty
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 7:34 pm
Location: Scarborough

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by Flinty » Thu Nov 07, 2019 9:13 pm

Thank you gentleman for the advice, I have made a start and got the starter motor and clutch slave off , so it should be plain sailing from now on !!!

Steve.

Paulkennedy
Posts: 79
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2016 11:01 pm

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by Paulkennedy » Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:23 pm

Colin that’s interesting you mention the tapered bolt that is used to lock the clutch release carrier to the cross shaft. Mine sheared when I removed it and to get a replacement is like finding hens teeth. Manners hasn’t got any and Barry Thorne’s ones (on the left)are slightly undersize on the taper.
I have found some shim metal that reduces the hole in the cross shaft allowing Barry’s bolt to be a tight fit, but that does not feel a very good engineering solution.
Any suggestions guys.
Thanks Paul
Attachments
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silverdart
Posts: 166
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:49 am
Location: West Midlands

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by silverdart » Sun Nov 10, 2019 10:18 pm

Hi, I had a similar problem which was solved by modifying a 7/16 unf capscrew. The taper is std. imperial taper pin. 1in48 taper.
I found Manners replacement of no use as the taper did not allow for wear. The modified taper was left oversize to allow for wear in the crosshole.
Below is a pic. of replacement pin.
IMG_1791.JPG
Dave.

daimlersteve
Posts: 366
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:20 am

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by daimlersteve » Mon Nov 11, 2019 3:06 am

Just get a TR one .

DaveM
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2016 3:36 pm
Location: Haslemere, UK

Re: SP gearbox removal

Post by DaveM » Mon Nov 11, 2019 10:24 am

Steve,

I've just overhauled my original gearbox after fitting the RX8

Here is what I found out about the taper pin fitted in the clutch release shaft. The clutch operating fork was drilled with a "tapping sized drill" to allow tapping of the thread for the tapered bolt, however they drilled right across the fork whilst doing it which left the tapered pin unsupported on either side. The taper pin is only held by the shaft and NOT BY THE FORK. The rotational forces ultimately shear the pin where in enters the shaft and no amount of engineering is going to rectify this design fault. Many have fitted additional pins through the fork/ actuating shaft to rectify this.

Remington TR parts have hardened taper bolts (158777D) and roll pins (RPS230331) readily available. You'll need to fettle the pin a bit to get a perfect fit, either buy a 1:48 tapered reamer on eBay (only the shaft needs reaming) or set your lathe compound slide to 0.6 degrees and skim the pin a fraction.

I increased the length of the shaft bushes to help reduce wear (7/8 x 3/4 x 1 1/4") originals were only 3/4" long

The gearbox input/ output shaft seals if you need them are "200 150 037 R21" & "256 150 050 R21"

Cheers Dave
clutch activation Rod.jpg

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