Please visit the Club's website to join, or visit to DONATE towards the cost of running the forum.
Please don't post someone's email address. Some people don't want to risk it being harvested by spambots and GDPR regulations discourage it.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" which gives all posts in date & time order if you can't find a post as topics are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Reg. nrs. Please add reg. nr. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
If you have CHANGED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS since registering for this forum, click your username and check your address in User Control Panel, Profile, Account Settings.
DLOC MEMBERSHIP RENEWAL is due on 1st June every year, see or contact Sara 01787 249 282 or e-mail .

1932-34 Lanchester 10 and Daimler 15 brakes

Descriptive and in-depth articles on how to do repairs or restoration. (Wilf's articles visible by forum members only).
Post Reply
Simon Hyslop
Helpful Person
Helpful Person
Posts: 411
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 3:30 pm
Location: Dumfries, UK

1932-34 Lanchester 10 and Daimler 15 brakes

Post by Simon Hyslop »

Copious though the servicing instructions were for our cars when new, there are always a few items which crop up where the makers wouldn't realistically have expected their creations to be working 80 years later.

One of these that came to my attention concerns the operation of the handbrake on the Lockheed braked cars only. If your car appears to be lacking power then this may be worth checking. The handbrake is operated by cables which operate cams on the back axle which run in two bushes, one on the backplate and the other on a bracket on the axle case. The cams operate in an Austin 7 or 10 like manner on the brake shoes. Large springs are meant to return the cams to off when the handbrake is released.

What can happen is that when the handbrake is released, the cams don't return due to dirt/corrosion in the bushes the operating shaft runs in and so the shoes remain stuck either on or partly on. The most effective release I found was WD40 sprayed into the bushes as far as possible and working the shaft back and forward having separated the handbrake cable at the clevis pin attached to the rocking lever on the axle.

With the cable disconnected, this is the best time to adjust the shoes then reconnect the cable making any adjustment necessary to ensure the shoes return to their stop on the adjusters as opposed to being adjusted by the handbrake cable.

If the above is happening, it will be tempting to always blame a stickiness in the brakes on the wheel cylinders but you have my assurance (having literally just finished working on them this afternoon) that sticking in these bushes could be the problem. Worth looking at anyway!

Posts: 276
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:23 am
Location: Nottingham

Re: 1932-34 Lanchester 10 and Daimler 15 brakes

Post by Petelang »

Yes Simon, I have had considerable problems with this on my Fifteen, particularly the left rear. There is no form of lubrication point to expel the dirt from the bearing and my one was very badly seized. I tried WD 40 without success and had to apply heat and penetrant in copious quantities. I would have preferred to remove the bearing support and renewed the bearing but it is riveted to the axle casing. I have to just keep lubricating it on a regular basis.
Peter Langridge
Cloud Nine Classic Weddings, Nottingham.

Post Reply