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SP250 Doors

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DavidH
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:20 pm
Location: Yarm, UK

SP250 Doors

Post by DavidH »

My Dart has just come back from a complete rebuild and looks great except for the doors. Instead of door seals the restorers used an edge trim without a seal. This lets the doors rattle so I bought the smallest seals I could find. They have a lip rather than a tube and so are easy to compress. However, they still push the doors out at the bottom by about 8mm.
I was wondering about cutting through the lip that the seal fits on and re-fiberglassing it a few millimetres inboard.
Is this joint between the door frame and floorpan under a lot of stress? Is it likely to start cracking unless well reinforced by extra fibreglass?
I had thought about making the door a bit narrower. I had an old door and practised on this. This would work to bring the bottom of the door inwards but it would still leave a lot of pressure on the door seal and hence on the door latch.
Any advice appreciated.
David

Vortex O'Plinth
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Location: Gloucestershire

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by Vortex O'Plinth »

The door fit should be dictated by the position of the latch and striker plate - the seal may make the door very difficult to close but is not normally rigid enough to distort it. The original lipped 'Furflex' has been unobtainable for some time so it would be interesting to see a picture of yours. Does your door shut properly without the seal fitted?

My own SP is fitted with unlipped Furflex trim and I am relying on the outer sponge door seals to provide anti-rattle and sealing functions. This works very well in excluding draft and rain.
Nick

"Don't bother with the Air & Space Museum - there's nothing to see.......".

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JohnM
Posts: 206
Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 1:31 pm
Location: N W London

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by JohnM »

Like Nick, I have unlipped Furflex equivalent and the external foam seal, both of which combine to keep the doors rattle and draught free.

I found it impossible to fiind a lipped or balloon seal that wouldn't put too much pressure on the door/lock.

Have you fitted the foam seals to your doors? If you have them, have you checked that the rattle isn't coming from the door "silencer" pin and socket? I couldn't get mine to stop rattling over bumps and had to put new rubbers into them.

Hope that helps,
John
John M in Middlesex, NW London
1962 SP250 "B" Spec
DLOC Herts Region Sec

DavidH
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:20 pm
Location: Yarm, UK

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by DavidH »

The door was not original to the car so has never fitted perfectly. I think the car had been in an accident many years ago.
The doors don't have the sponge door seals but that sounds a possible solution.
The seals I have put on are just rubber, no furflex, and are these - https://coh-baines.co.uk/product/dx-73- ... -excluder/
David

NeilB
Posts: 20
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 9:43 pm

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by NeilB »

Hi David,

I have just had my Dart re-trimmed and used 264-R Plush & Sponge Snappon Door Seal from Woolies Trim. The red colour was a bit bright but the leather refurbisher darkened it with a stain. As John says it probably is a tiny bit wider than the original but the doors do shut nicely onto the seal albeit with a firm shove.

Good luck.

Neil

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migray
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Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:31 pm
Location: Bakewell

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by migray »

Trying to get my doors to close properly is proving difficult. I actually have the correct seal for the door aperture (with a rubber flap) but it still seems to be too thick to let the door fit flush. I have had to trim it at the hinge end to get that reasonable but it is still upto a quarter of an inch proud at the catch end despite how I try adjusting things. I have spent days trying to improve it.
I have the other rubber seal which is meant to stick on the door, can someone tell me how to position this, does it go right round the door with gaps for the drain holes or is it less complete than that? I cannot remember exactly how the old bits of rubber were fitted. A photo would help.

Thanks

Mike

silverdart
Posts: 285
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:49 am
Location: West Midlands

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by silverdart »

DavidH, Having just read your post. I would think you need ta adjust the striker plate to pull the door in.
Sometime ago, I adjusted the position of the lip as you discussed and I have not had any problems as a result.

Dave.

Vortex O'Plinth
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Location: Gloucestershire

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by Vortex O'Plinth »

migray wrote: Wed Apr 01, 2020 7:32 pm .....I have the other rubber seal which is meant to stick on the door, can someone tell me how to position this, does it go right round the door with gaps for the drain holes or is it less complete than that? I cannot remember exactly how the old bits of rubber were fitted. A photo would help.
Thanks
Mike
This thread might help - assuming you can see the pictures.
Nick

"Don't bother with the Air & Space Museum - there's nothing to see.......".

DavidH
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:20 pm
Location: Yarm, UK

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by DavidH »

Thanks for the replies. Really appreciated.
I think the easiest solution for me is to use the plain furflex, without a seal, and the outer foam seal. The reason I hadn't considered this before was that most of the other posts I had read said fit the inner seal and don't bother with the one on the door.
If I go for the plain furflex it would leave a small gap between it and the door. So my NEXT QUESTION! Which edge trim should I go for? Woolies Trim do two types - "plush snap-on edge trim" and "larger snap-on edge trim".
Thanks again.
David

John Chatfield
Posts: 78
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:00 pm
Location: Shrewsbury England

Re: SP250 Doors

Post by John Chatfield »

Why not ask Woolies to send a sample of both for you t compare ?

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