Many thanks for the info posted so far with my Charging issues.
But I can't get to the bottom of the problem
Any ideas would be most helpful
Sit Rep
Ammeter not showing charge - but shows discharge
Dynamo checked and giving variable voltage output
F & D cables to regulator replaced so not in the loom.
Start car
Ignition light goes out
Both coils in the regulator - are magnetic to touch
BUT if I manually OPEN the Regulating coil contact, the Bridge coil closes, and the ignition light flickers on.
I have replaced the regulator with an older one, and the same issue happens (they are now switched back).
From what I can see from the wiring diagram, the charge goes back to the battery via the Ammeter to the starter solenoid connector.
The battery charging socket on the dashboard gives a reading of 12 volts when stationary.
If the battery is disconnected when the engine is running, the car stops
Regards
Michael
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Please don't post someone's email address to avoid it being harvested by spambots and it's against GDPR regulations.
Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
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Current conundrum
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- Posts: 164
- Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2018 8:46 pm
- Location: pershore worcestershire
Re: Current conundrum
Is the dynamo correctly polarised for your car (positive or negative earth depending how you have configured it).
see http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.c ... dynamo.php
see http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.c ... dynamo.php
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- Wise Man
- Posts: 795
- Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 2:14 pm
- Location: Penkridge. Staffs.
Re: Current conundrum
With everything switched off, momentarily close the regulator contacts. One will do nothing, the other should give a slight spark. The contact that "sparked" is the cut-out which switches the dynano out of circuit when stationary - otherwise the battery would discharge through the dynamo.
You have now both polarised your dynamo and induces residual magnetism into the field winding yokes. This magetism will ebb away overa very long period - which is why a car stood for a long time will not show a charge when eventually started up. Now to your problem:
Disconnect the wiring to the dynamo completely.
Now connect a seperate piece of wire to bridge the F and D connections on the dynamo. Start the engine and gently increase speed up to about 2000 rev/min. With a voltmeter connected across the bridged F & D terminals on the dynamo and earth, the voltage should rise to about 26/30 volts - but don't over rev the dynamo or run the test for too long as it will over-heat the armature.
If the dynamo does not check out - let us know for the next step. .....................
You have now both polarised your dynamo and induces residual magnetism into the field winding yokes. This magetism will ebb away overa very long period - which is why a car stood for a long time will not show a charge when eventually started up. Now to your problem:
Disconnect the wiring to the dynamo completely.
Now connect a seperate piece of wire to bridge the F and D connections on the dynamo. Start the engine and gently increase speed up to about 2000 rev/min. With a voltmeter connected across the bridged F & D terminals on the dynamo and earth, the voltage should rise to about 26/30 volts - but don't over rev the dynamo or run the test for too long as it will over-heat the armature.
If the dynamo does not check out - let us know for the next step. .....................