The wind-up window in the driver's door on my 1947 Briggs LD10 has a number of cracks and I fear I may have to replace the glass.
Has anybody changed the window glass on their car? I have two main questions:
1. What type of glass should I ask for at the glass merchants?
2. The glass is held in a metal "U" channel with a rubber seal. What's the best way to remove and replace the glass?
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Always look at "ACTIVE TOPICS" to see all posts in date & time order as they are sometimes moved; or look at "Your Posts".
Please add Reg. nrs. when posting a photo or anything about a car as this will help searches. Don't add punctuation next to nr. as this negates search.
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Wind-up door window glass
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- watkindj
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Re: Wind-up door window glass
ask Adrian Hanwell as he may have a spare rather than getting a new one cut
Darren
South Cambridgeshire
XJ Registrar &
LD10 Registrar
LD10 Website Webmaster Incorporating (Worldwide Lanchester LD10 Register)
http://ld10.awardspace.co.uk
South Cambridgeshire
XJ Registrar &
LD10 Registrar
LD10 Website Webmaster Incorporating (Worldwide Lanchester LD10 Register)
http://ld10.awardspace.co.uk
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Re: Wind-up door window glass
I have renewed glass in my Daimler Fifteen, obtaining a replacement glass from two different glazing specialist who make conventional windows. I believe the original laminated glass was 5mm but its becoming a bit rare to find these days as 6mm is the preferred industry standard but that should fit without a problem in the runners.
One thing to be particularly careful of is the channel needs to be free of rust as it can cause stress points and result in a crack (learned by error!).
I placed the glass on a bench on a thick floor felt, marked the channel position so as to put back in same position on the new glass, and tapped the channel off with a piece of hadwood. Thoroughly cleaned and de-rusted. Painted in red lead and then black. Fit the rubber channel liner U shaped around the glass, bit of soap on inner surface and gently tap it back onto bottom of the glass in marked position on new window.
You can get new side channel felts from Woolies Trim. Usualthese are glued in the door. Makes for considerably less rattle and draughts.
One thing to be particularly careful of is the channel needs to be free of rust as it can cause stress points and result in a crack (learned by error!).
I placed the glass on a bench on a thick floor felt, marked the channel position so as to put back in same position on the new glass, and tapped the channel off with a piece of hadwood. Thoroughly cleaned and de-rusted. Painted in red lead and then black. Fit the rubber channel liner U shaped around the glass, bit of soap on inner surface and gently tap it back onto bottom of the glass in marked position on new window.
You can get new side channel felts from Woolies Trim. Usualthese are glued in the door. Makes for considerably less rattle and draughts.
Peter Langridge
Cloud Nine Classic Weddings, Nottingham.
Cloud Nine Classic Weddings, Nottingham.
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Re: Wind-up door window glass
Many thanks for that, Peter.
It's reassuring that the glass can be replaced in the channel without too much drama.
Yes... I'm in the process of changing the window channel and weatherstrips on all four doors.
I've finished the rear doors and am about to start on the front. That's why I'm wondering what to do about the cracked front window.
I screwed the channel into the door frame in the same way it was originally fitted.
Mike
It's reassuring that the glass can be replaced in the channel without too much drama.
Yes... I'm in the process of changing the window channel and weatherstrips on all four doors.
I've finished the rear doors and am about to start on the front. That's why I'm wondering what to do about the cracked front window.
I screwed the channel into the door frame in the same way it was originally fitted.
Mike
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Re: Wind-up door window glass
My local glass supplier tells me that I can either have laminated glass at 4.4mm thick or toughened glass at 5mm. The original is 3/16"... 4.8mm.
I've opted for the 5mm... it will fit the new channel better and should also be stronger.
I was about to refit the nearside window while waiting for the new offside glass when I discovered multiple cracks along the lower edge, much the same as in the offside window. When I took it out of the door it was perfect... the cracks have just appeared while it was laying down for a week.
I think I've worked out what's happened... 75 years of rain running down the glass has caused the inside of the metal clamp to rust. The rust scale has grown and put pressure on the bottom edge of the glass. The offside window had cracked before I got the car; I believe the heat cycling in my Clarke "instant" garage was sufficient to expand the other window, already under a lot of pressure from the rust, enough to finally cause the glass to succumb to the pressure.
The silver lining is that two new windows made together will be cheaper than having a second made later, and it was obviously going to crack sooner or later.
If the metal clamp on your car looks at all rusty on the outside, then the chances are high that inside the channel it will be very bad. If you can get it off the glass and treat the rust you may avoid needing new glass in the future.
I've opted for the 5mm... it will fit the new channel better and should also be stronger.
I was about to refit the nearside window while waiting for the new offside glass when I discovered multiple cracks along the lower edge, much the same as in the offside window. When I took it out of the door it was perfect... the cracks have just appeared while it was laying down for a week.
I think I've worked out what's happened... 75 years of rain running down the glass has caused the inside of the metal clamp to rust. The rust scale has grown and put pressure on the bottom edge of the glass. The offside window had cracked before I got the car; I believe the heat cycling in my Clarke "instant" garage was sufficient to expand the other window, already under a lot of pressure from the rust, enough to finally cause the glass to succumb to the pressure.
The silver lining is that two new windows made together will be cheaper than having a second made later, and it was obviously going to crack sooner or later.
If the metal clamp on your car looks at all rusty on the outside, then the chances are high that inside the channel it will be very bad. If you can get it off the glass and treat the rust you may avoid needing new glass in the future.
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Re: Wind-up door window glass
Update:
I received the quote this morning... a smidgeon under £100 for the pair including VAT, which I thought was quite reasonable.
I intend to fix them into the metal channels with silicone sealant... should be amply strong enough and no strain at all on the glass.
I received the quote this morning... a smidgeon under £100 for the pair including VAT, which I thought was quite reasonable.
I intend to fix them into the metal channels with silicone sealant... should be amply strong enough and no strain at all on the glass.